神级本帮家常菜｜地道上海红烧肉软糯不腻｜新手照样一次成功

上海人为什么把一碗红烧肉看得这么重，真不是瞎讲究。节庆团圆上桌，平常家宴撑场面，老店菜单翻来覆去改，这道菜还是稳稳坐在那儿。它代表的不是一块肉，而是上海那股子讲究劲儿，油要亮，色要红，肉要酥，味要收得住。

这事往深了说，背后就是本帮菜的老规矩。少香料，重原味，靠糖、酱油、黄酒慢慢把肉的香气吊出来。和北方那种大开大合的炖肉不一样，本帮红烧肉讲的是细活，讲的是火候，讲的是把一块普通五花肉做出层次感。

真正让人服气的，是它看着简单，做起来一点不含糊。很多人一到自己家厨房就翻车，颜色黑乎乎，肥肉腻，瘦肉柴，吃两块就想喝水。问题不在肉贵不贵，而在选肉、处理、焖煮、收汁这几步，少一步都不行。

先说选肉。正宗做法更看重猪肋部位的五花肉，肥瘦大概四成油脂配六成精肉。这个比例不是拍脑袋来的，老厨师试了多年才定下来的。油太多，吃着发腻，像嘴里挂了层油布；瘦肉太多，火候一过就发干，咬起来像嚼柴火棍。

好的五花肉，表皮得干净，肉色红白分明，摸起来有弹性，没有怪味。要是市场上那种纹路乱、肥瘦搅成一锅粥的，别硬上。做红烧肉，食材底子差，后面怎么补都补不回来。山东人买肉也讲究这个，肉得实在，不能虚头巴脑。

上海本帮这口味，还有个特别明显的特点，就是香料用得少。八角、桂皮、香叶这些，很多别的炖肉会放，但本帮红烧肉里反而常常不用。为啥？因为这些香料味太冲，容易把猪肉本身的香气压住。红烧肉要的是浓油赤酱，不是五香大杂烩。

调味也不复杂。葱姜负责去腥，花雕酒负责提香去膻，生抽提鲜，老抽上色，冰糖定甜口和光泽。这里头最有讲头的就是糖。很多老上海家庭做这道菜，不是甜得发齁，而是甜里带咸，咸里带鲜，吃完嘴里还有回甘。这个味道，拎得清，不糊弄。

还有一步，很多新手容易偷懒，就是前期处理。整块五花肉先烘一下猪皮，刮掉残毛和脏东西，这不是矫情，是保证口感和干净。然后再浸泡三十分钟，把血水慢慢逼出来。别小看这半小时，肉腥不腥，很多时候就差在这一步。
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003214_40262.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003214_67478.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003213_08801.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003214_18381.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003214_11546.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003213_24437.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003211_70890.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003211_10253.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003211_41745.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003211_47969.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003209_15830.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003209_73709.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003210_58623.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003209_19456.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003209_53805.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003208_01785.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003205_48038.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003204_42995.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003204_45282.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003203_15829.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003204_59810.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003204_73307.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003203_90945.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003204_14193.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003203_86915.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003205_29606.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003202_60207.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003201_53686.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003200_48923.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003200_32013.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003200_52401.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003159_98544.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003159_22064.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003159_60154.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003158_95968.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003158_18338.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003158_90335.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003152_52211.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003155_93607.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003154_96805.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003153_07117.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003153_34394.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003155_35833.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003153_09679.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003153_87622.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003153_90950.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003153_18514.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003151_40338.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003151_59475.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003148_87133.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003147_63370.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003148_25116.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003148_20417.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003148_80974.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003148_31729.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003148_55658.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003146_80216.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003147_74953.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003146_48144.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003143_80145.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003142_83830.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003142_06216.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003142_29730.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003142_97931.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003143_47592.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003141_36934.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003142_31412.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003142_27794.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003141_57306.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003136_18360.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003138_36806.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003136_95020.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003136_72783.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003136_02618.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003136_50994.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003136_25467.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003136_85433.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003136_39918.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003136_79645.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003134_79336.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003132_83878.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003132_11013.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003130_39652.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003130_23663.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003130_43717.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003129_00999.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003130_61377.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003130_18049.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003130_91774.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003130_52075.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003128_02061.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003126_73233.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003125_71563.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003126_54179.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003124_14649.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003124_67700.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003124_63273.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003124_87942.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003124_39762.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003124_25371.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003124_76013.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003123_20321.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003120_08197.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003120_40483.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003120_92188.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003117_78481.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003119_78608.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003118_13304.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003119_40092.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003119_58943.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003118_54866.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003117_30073.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003115_39758.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003115_08487.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003115_36467.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003115_16527.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003114_99858.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003113_68326.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003113_63200.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003113_40772.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003113_14436.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003111_86132.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003110_54685.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003106_63533.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003104_75459.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003105_23067.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003106_46901.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003107_75343.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003106_93417.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003106_89120.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003105_25065.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003101_45167.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003101_08654.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003058_14361.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003058_23487.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003057_41873.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003057_34293.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003057_09084.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003056_16073.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003057_15889.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003057_43456.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003055_23338.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003055_39603.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003053_64727.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003053_90641.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003050_13214.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003050_16260.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003050_84843.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003050_32770.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003050_55525.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003049_27648.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003049_68674.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003048_00274.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003047_27339.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003044_51369.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003038_46018.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003038_42965.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003038_14695.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003036_52523.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003036_45526.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003037_36467.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003035_26332.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003037_31519.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003037_75096.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003035_98096.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003029_64495.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003028_25833.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003028_26629.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003029_84336.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003029_19558.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003028_58664.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003029_47347.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003029_07351.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003029_35308.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003028_62690.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003022_26446.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003023_69570.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003023_55115.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003023_48898.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003022_98303.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003023_57133.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003022_15994.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003023_48995.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003023_27167.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003023_30426.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003017_51709.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003018_41931.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003016_53338.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003016_31873.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003017_69388.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003018_79875.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003016_69034.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003016_77875.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003016_20801.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003016_82186.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003015_50859.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003014_87139.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003013_54436.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003013_10139.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003011_33217.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003011_42022.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003011_78771.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003011_00235.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003011_97905.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003011_08193.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003011_64013.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003010_84860.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003009_08159.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003009_31335.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/003004_40679.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003005_57708.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003005_26028.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003006_85930.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/003004_97431.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/003004_89491.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003006_13725.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/003005_30385.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/003004_92191.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/003004_58976.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/003002_75365.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/003002_33934.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002959_42114.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002959_02908.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002959_49454.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002959_51721.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002959_11366.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002959_25743.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/003001_06382.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/003000_81865.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002958_63481.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002958_76005.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002957_03652.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002953_94123.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002952_03039.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002953_41639.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002954_01390.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002952_05440.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002953_65579.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002952_38236.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002953_78639.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002953_86609.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002953_14106.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002950_14389.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002948_03743.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002947_53858.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002948_52563.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002947_59522.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002946_86581.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002948_62687.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002947_46975.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002947_62518.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002946_55487.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002946_66718.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002941_74937.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002943_83602.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002943_31781.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002941_50761.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002942_90841.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002942_95951.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002942_90616.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002942_42960.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002940_57055.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002941_26648.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002938_01852.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002936_30967.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002937_02455.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002937_35537.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002937_19314.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002937_30059.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002936_03752.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002936_58871.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002935_07822.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002935_40069.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002935_09784.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002933_16714.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002933_88290.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002933_18278.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002932_73739.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002933_55747.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002932_02840.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002932_53777.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002931_37916.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002931_47280.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002931_71486.md
https://github.com/church19br/mznjyu/blob/main/002927_17049.md
https://github.com/church19br/mznjyu/blob/main/002919_13080.md
https://github.com/laneupp/devesw/blob/main/002912_29150.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/kodlbb/blob/main/002910_90008.md
https://github.com/pointifica/kbmjfc/blob/main/002909_08195.md
https://github.com/sakukehota/vbgxmb/blob/main/002910_53798.md
https://github.com/nysivaczek/mufvjs/blob/main/002910_72316.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/igiusn/blob/main/002910_05199.md
https://github.com/column47te/vcadfa/blob/main/002910_44427.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/ydokni/blob/main/002910_14345.md
https://github.com/faust7fact/vqtowf/blob/main/002909_42738.md
https://github.com/h-lady/wvhkeb/blob/main/002908_42094.md
https://github.com/laneupp/irsumw/blob/main/002903_52164.md
https://github.com/sandboxclo/hghlgr/blob/main/002903_17223.md
https://github.com/mixyjejave/cyxxfo/blob/main/002901_88137.md
https://github.com/alexalik83/zjilmu/blob/main/002902_26887.md

焯水也不能瞎来。冷水下锅，放葱姜和花雕酒，锅盖别盖死，让腥气往外走。大概五分钟，肉表面定型就行。要是时间拖太长，肉发紧，后面再焖都不够松软。很多人以为焯得越久越干净，其实不是，过头就坏事。

肉焯好以后，最好自然放凉，再改刀切成三厘米左右的方块。块太小，炖着容易散，块太大，又不入味。这个尺寸，差不多是本帮红烧肉比较稳的标准。切好之后别再拿冷水冲，不然肉纤维一收，后面口感就僵。

现在不少家庭做红烧肉，怕麻烦，不炒糖色。其实家常版可以走更稳的路子，直接冷锅下肉，中小火慢慢干煸，把多余油脂逼出来。这个步骤很关键，肉块表面微微发黄，锅里滋啦滋啦响，油气往外跑，最后吃着才不腻。老话说得实在，肉要香，先把它身上的油性收一收。

干煸完，锅里留一点底油，放葱姜炝一下，再下花雕酒、生抽、老抽、冰糖。这里不用拼命加料，调味一乱，整锅肉就跑偏。真正厉害的本帮红烧肉，调料看着少，味道却能立住，靠的就是食材本身和火候配合。

最要命的一步，是加水。只能加开水，不能用冷水。这个道理不复杂，热肉遇冷水，表面一激，肉质马上收紧，腥气也容易被闷在里面。很多人做了半天，最后肉发硬，汤发浑，问题就出在这口水上。锅里水加足，没过肉块，大火烧开后，立刻转最小火。

文火慢焖，大概六十分钟，这才是本帮红烧肉的脾气。火太大，汤翻得太猛，肉表面容易烂，里面却还没透；火太小，又焖不出那种软糯感。稳定的小火，像老实人走路，一步一步往前挪，胶原慢慢化开，肉香一层一层往外冒。

这时候最忌讳的，就是老开盖看。锅盖一掀，热气跑了，温度就散了。炖肉这事，跟养脾气似的，得稳。老上海人做菜，最不缺的就是耐心。别看一锅肉咕嘟着，背后全是时间磨出来的。

一小时之后，筷子轻轻一扎，能顺着肉块穿过去，基本就成了。接下来就是大火收汁。这个环节，很多人舍不得守着锅，结果汤收干过头，肉发焦发苦，锅底还容易糊。正确做法是边翻边收，让汤汁慢慢挂在肉表面，收成红棕色，亮得像上了漆。

收汁不能太狠，得留一点底汤。因为这口汁，才是拌米饭的魂。上海本帮菜为什么让人记着，很多时候不是因为菜本身多神，而是那口酱汁能把白米饭直接拽进味觉里。山东人也懂这个，菜不一定多，但饭得能多扒两碗。

做好的红烧肉，颜色要通透，红里带亮，不能黑。肥肉部分应该是晶晶亮亮的，入口化开，嘴里不剩油腻感。瘦肉得软，不柴，不塞牙。猪皮那层最见功夫，胶质起来以后，咬着弹，嚼着糯，像在嘴里打个小秋千。

这道菜还有个很现实的地方，就是特别适合一家老小坐一块吃。老人牙口弱，吃软烂的正合适；孩子嘴挑，见了这种带甜口的肉也容易多吃两块。家里要是来点米饭，再加一盘青菜，热气一冒，屋里那股子家常味儿就出来了。

我最服气的是，它不靠花哨撑门面。没有山珍海味，没有复杂刀工，也不需要高深派头。就是一块猪肉，几样常见调料，靠火候一点点熬，最后熬成一桌人的念想。上海人把这种味道守了很多年，守的其实就是日子里的踏实感。

说白了，红烧肉这东西，拼的不是谁家料多，而是谁家更会把平常食材做出真滋味。能把油腻压下去，把鲜香提上来，把肉做得软而不烂，甜而不齁，咸而不重，这锅里装的就是老百姓过日子的智慧。俺也去做饭这么多年，越琢磨越觉得，真正让人惦记的饭菜，往往都不花哨，实在，耐吃，顶饱，还带着点家里的温度。