傈僳非遗的国际邂逅

来源：华西都市报

Lisu Intangible Heritage Encounters with an International Brand

火草麻布是傈僳妇女取下火草绒毛捻成线，混合麻线制作而成。

傈僳族妇女正在制作火草麻布。

Sheme品牌的艺术鞋履作品。

　　在凉山彝族自治州德昌县的傈僳族中，传承着一种古老的纺织工艺——用“火草”“火麻”的植物纤维纺织而成的火草麻布来制作服饰。火草是当地山上生长的一种植物，叶背有一层薄膜般的白色绒毛，傈僳妇女取下绒毛后捻成线，再混合麻线织入布中，形成独具特色的火草麻布。

　　In the Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture's Dechang County, among the Lisu people, an ancient weaving technique has been passed down - using plant fibers from "fire grass" and "linen" to weave a unique fabric called fire grass linen cloth. Fire grass is a plant that grows on local mountains, with leaves covered by a thin layer of white fur on the underside. Lisu women remove the fuzz, twist it into threads, and mix it with linen yarn to weave the fabric, producing the distinct fire grass linen cloth.

　　2016年初，熊国秀牵头成立德昌县国绣傈僳火草麻布制作专业合作社，使火草麻布技艺得到复苏与传承。

　　In early 2016, Xiong Guoxiu led the establishment of the "Dechang County Guoxiu Lisu Fire Grass Linen Cloth Production Cooperative", helping to revive and preserve the fire grass linen weaving craft.

　　无独有偶，在千里之外的德国杜塞尔多夫，诞生于中国成都的高端鞋履品牌Sheme，也行使着相似的使命。Sheme是首个且多次登上伦敦时装周、巴黎高定时装周的中国高端女鞋品牌。自2021年起，它以中国56个民族的文化为灵感源泉，相继推出以珞巴族、彝族、怒族为主题的艺术鞋履作品，并积极将蜀绣、盘扣等非遗技艺运用于鞋履之上。

　　In Düsseldorf, Germany, a high-end footwear brand born in Chengdu, China, called Sheme, carries out a similar mission. Sheme is the first and multiple-time participant at London Fashion Week and Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, and it is a luxury Chinese women's shoe brand. Since 2021, Sheme has drawn inspiration from the cultures of the fifty-six ethnic groups of China, launching artistic footwear collections themed around the Lhoba, Yi, and Nu ethnic groups. The brand has also actively incorporated intangible cultural heritage techniques, such as Sichuan embroidery and Chinese knotting, into its shoe designs.

　　2025年春夏，Sheme将推出根植于四川凉山州傈僳族文化习俗的系列作品，并在合作模式上，做出前所未有的改变……

　　In the spring and summer of 2025, Sheme will launch a collection rooted in the cultural customs of the Lisu people in Liangshan, Sichuan, and make unprecedented changes to its collaborative approach.

　　曾经山野中不起眼的草叶，如今也有了走上国际舞台的机会。

　　What was once an unremarkable grass leaf in the wild now has a chance to step onto the international stage.

　　中文作者：四川国际传播中心记者 曲萍

　　英文作者：四川国际传播中心记者 刘动

　　摄影：曲萍