5月21日,国际茶日,恰逢小满。
我们以工夫茶法,四地不同地乌龙茶,展开乌龙茶之美。
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一场茶,两段史——巡味中国乌龙茶
明代“废团改散”的诏令,开启了茶的瀹泡时代,也为乌龙茶的诞生埋下伏笔。从武夷山“看青做青”的岩茶古法,到闽南人用双脚在茶山间丈量出的贸易版图,再到“孟臣罐、若深瓯”对小壶小杯的精微讲究——四百年间,每一片茶叶的涅槃,都在书写中国人对风味的极致追求。
恰逢国际茶日,一拙以四巡经典乌龙,致敬乌龙茶演变史与工夫茶发展史的双重脉络。
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第一巡·闽南漳平水仙1944
见证:乌龙茶的品种迁徙与紧压形态
上世纪初,闽北水仙的茶苗跨越山海,在漳平落地生根。1944年的老枞水仙,经晒青、凉青、做青、揉烘,最终被压制成方——这是乌龙茶中唯一的紧压茶形态,藏香于内的智慧,质朴而绵长。
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第二巡·台湾新竹东方美人
见证:白毫乌龙的意外诞生与重发酵美学
日据时期,新竹茶农不忍丢弃被小绿叶蝉叮咬的茶青,将其制成重发酵乌龙,竟在博览会上惊艳四方。小绿叶蝉的唾液与茶叶酵素自然混合,发酵度高达60%-85%——这是天灾与人力共同成就的风味传奇,也是乌龙茶工艺向“重发酵”方向探索的里程碑。
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第三巡·乌岽山凹富后
见证:凤凰单丛的漫长选育与单株精神
始种于南宋,兴盛于明清,乌岽顶的茶曾为贡品。潮汕人以“单株单采”的孤勇,从数以万计的茶树中甄选名丛。凹富厚所保留的乌岽山韵,是九百年来一代代茶人对极致风土个性的一次次确认与封存。
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第四巡·武夷母本大红袍
见证:乌龙茶的原点与当代非遗传承
明代武夷茶人开创了乌龙茶的“半发酵”工艺,做青时“看青做青,死去活来”的手法,至今仍是岩茶精神的底片。其制作技艺2006年入选首批国家级非遗,2022年更列入联合国人类非遗。工夫茶的称谓,便来自释超全《武夷茶歌》中那句“心闲手敏工夫细”——这是中国乌龙茶工艺史上的定音之锤:做茶是一门“花工夫”的技艺,品茶亦是。
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工夫遇功夫 乌龙功夫茶法
以李染工夫茶之法,
十数年,躬身寻访海内外的山野云零间,
叩问种性、风土、工艺、人文、时间的深层关联,
茶的艺术与科学平衡之美,
将“拙”的哲思沉淀为茶事实践,
开创“大巧如拙”工夫茶法。
巡味中国乌龙茶。
慢斟细品,一期一会。
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另携手一拙茶研所同习,
透过不同茶人之手,
窥见不同的表达与审美。
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5月21日,国际茶日,一拙邀您共赴这场乌龙之美的巡味之旅。
地点:一拙茶研所(北京五道营胡同84号)
时间:2026年5月21日 15:00
主茶人:李染
茶人:王yoyo
茶人:梓淇
茶品:
第一巡· 闽南漳平水仙 1944
第二巡· 台湾新竹东方美人
第三巡· 乌岽山凹富厚
第四巡· 武夷母本大红袍
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International Tea Day & Grain Buds · YIJO Tea Research Institute
Li Ran’s Gongfu Tea · Tasting the History of Chinese Oolong
The Ming Dynasty edict that replaced pressed cakes with loose leaf tea sparked a quiet revolution. From the inception of oolong processing in Wuyi’s mountains, to the exquisite miniature teaware of Chaozhou, tea-making and tea-brewing each evolved into sophisticated arts.
On International Tea Day 2026, YIJO Tea Research Institute presents four iconic oolongs—each a living witness to the intertwined histories of China’s tea craftsmanship and gongfu tea culture.
May 21 is International Tea Day, this year coinciding withGrain Buds (Xiaoman) – the second solar term of summer, when crops are plump but not yet ripe, pregnant with potential. On this perfectly poised day, YIJO Tea Research Institute invites you to a tasting pilgrimage through the beauty of oolong. From southern Fujian to Taiwan, from Wudong to Wuyi, one cup traces centuries of terroir and artistry.
First Steep – Zhangping Shuixian 1944, Southern Fujian
Witness: regional propagation & compression technique
In the early 20th century, shuixian tea seedlings from northern Fujian crossed mountains to take root in Zhangping, giving rise to the only pressed oolong in China. This 1944 old bush shuixian, after traditional processing, was pressed into a square brick – a humble wisdom that seals aroma and flavor.
In Grain Buds, Zhangping’s rains bring a tea full but balanced, like the season itself.
Second Steep – Oriental Beauty (Gold Medal), Hsinchu, Taiwan
Witness: accidental innovation & high-oxidation profile
During the Japanese colonial period, a tea grower in Hsinchu, unwilling to discard jassid-bitten leaves, processed them into a heavily oxidized oolong – a stroke of luck that won gold at an expo. Jassid saliva meets tea enzymes, creating 60-85% oxidation and honeyed fruit notes.
Grain Buds’ Oriental Beauty is sweet yet restrained – a perfect metaphor for “small but full”.
Third Steep – Aofuhou, Wudong Mountain, Guangdong
Witness: single-bush refinement through centuries
First planted in the Southern Song dynasty, these Wudong leaves became imperial tribute in the Ming dynasty. Chaozhou tea masters, with single-bush courage, selected the finest clones from thousands. Aofuhou’s deep rocky charm is the fruit of nine centuries of terroir pursuit.
Grain Buds in Wudong: mist thickens, tea deepens – each sip a gift of time.
Fourth Steep – Mother Bush Dahongpao, Wuyi Mountain, Fujian
Witness: oolong’s birthplace & living UNESCO heritage
From the late Ming, Wuyi tea pioneers developed oolong’s signature half-oxidation technique. The craft was inscribed as national intangible cultural heritage in 2006 and UNESCO Human Heritage in 2022. The term “gongfu tea” itself comes from a Qing poem about Wuyi tea: “With a leisurely mind and nimble hand, fine is the gongfu (patience and skill) in each detail.”
Grain Buds’ Dahongpao – rock bone, floral aroma, and a majestic aftertaste – embodies the season’s pregnant fullness.
Slow, mindful, once-in-a-lifetime.
On International Tea Day, under Grain Buds, YIJO Tea Research Institute invites you to a tasting pilgrimage through the beauty of oolong.
Venue: YIJO Tea Research Institute (No.84 Wudaoying Hutong, Beijing)
Time: 15:00 , May 21, 2026
Price:¥299/person
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