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北京华贸,谢霆锋私藏的河南味,值得打卡!

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建国路89号院,华贸商业街喧嚣里,藏着一家让谢霆锋反复打卡的河南菜馆-荣豫河南菜。门口一条由麦穗组成的龙,一侧是古色古香的中式厅堂陈设,音响里放着豫剧的桥段。没有网红店的浮夸,干干净净的家常烟火气。饭点座无虚席,服务员会提醒菜量够了别多点——这种实在劲儿,本身就是河南性格。

【牡丹燕菜】



洛阳水席的头牌。这道菜端上来就是一幅画——汤面上浮着一朵金黄如玉的牡丹花。牡丹燕菜是洛阳水席24道菜中的首菜,1973年周总理陪加拿大总理用餐时,见洛阳名厨以鸡蛋蒸制牡丹花点缀其上,戏言“洛阳牡丹甲天下,菜中开出牡丹花”,自此得名。

主料是白萝卜,但完全吃不出萝卜味——切细丝、拌绿豆粉芡、上笼蒸成燕窝状,配海参、鱿鱼、鸡肉等食材再蒸透,最后浇上清亮的高汤。入口酸辣香郁、爽滑适口,萝卜丝在汤里散开,带着高汤的鲜醇,清新又开胃。武则天当年尝过这道“假燕菜”后龙颜大悦,能让一代女皇记住的味道,自然不简单。

【信阳闷罐肉】



信阳人做闷罐肉,讲究的是时间。五花肉切块,入罐慢炖,直到肉质酥烂、肥而不腻。端上桌时酱香浓郁,汤汁浓稠地挂在每一块肉上。瘦肉不塞牙,肥肉入口即化,肉香彻底渗透每一丝肌理。有食客评价:“配米饭堪称绝配”,“能连吃两碗”。这道菜的妙处就在一个“慢”字——时间到了,味道自然就出来了。

【炕馍蘸酱】

炕馍是河南街头的寻常吃食,但荣豫的做法格外讲究——外皮炕得焦黄酥脆,内里依然柔软,麦香浓郁。蘸的酱是秘制西瓜酱,咸香醇厚。



西瓜酱,河南人夏天最家常的念想。西瓜瓤和发酵好的黄豆一起封进缸里,放在太阳底下暴晒,晒足三伏天。西瓜的水分和糖分慢慢渗进黄豆里,酱香和果香在时间里融合,最后变成这碟红润油亮的酱。有人管它叫“就馍神器”。

一口下去,先是馍皮的焦脆在齿间碎裂,接着是内部的柔软和麦香,最后是酱的醇厚在舌尖化开。有食客评价“越嚼越香”,“每一口都能尝到老家的味道”。简单,却让人停不下来。

【水激馍】



水激馍发源于商丘古城归德府,明代阁老沈鲤宴客时已有这道菜。做法是把硬面馒头切条,入热水浸泡后油炸至金黄,再放入炒好的糖汁中快速翻炒。因糖汁中有水,馍炸好后要放在水里“激”一下,故得名。成品色泽金黄透亮,外皮焦酥一触即碎,馍芯绵软回甘。作为宴席收尾的甜品,最是治愈。









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