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好竹连山觉笋香,共品春日第一鲜

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十年前一次席间相谈,令1996川菜·主厨餐厅主理人梁棣女士与香港艺术家、美食家欧阳应霁先生相谈甚欢,当时梁棣女士便想为欧阳先生实地介绍四川的大美食材……十年之后,寻味眉山,回溯源头,一场春日寻味旅程,圆一场十年之约。

A decade ago, over a relaxed dinner conversation, Ms. Liang Di, the visionary behind Chef 1996 Restaurant, engaged in a delightful discussion with Mr. Au Yeung Ying Chai, an artist and food culture curator from Hong Kong. Inspired by the exchange, Ms. Liang Di resolved to personally introduce Mr. Au Yeung to the rich culinary heritage of Sichuan… Fast forward ten years, they find themselves in Meishan, exploring the vibrant flavors and tracing back to their culinary roots, all while honoring a promise made a decade ago.

“其肴维何,炰鳖鲜鱼,

其蔌维何,维笋及蒲。”

——《诗经·大雅》

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国人喜食竹笋的习惯,可以追溯到《诗经》中记载的周朝餐桌。吃笋于国人而言,不只是一种食材,也是与山野的对话,对春光的追逐,是具有文人精神寄托的精神追求。

The Chinese tradition of enjoying bamboo shoots traces back to the Zhou Dynasty, as chronicled in the “Book of Songs”. For the Chinese, eating bamboo shoots is more than just a culinary preference; it's a conversation with nature, a celebration of spring, reflecting the intellectual pursuits of scholars.

“久客厌虏馔,枵然思南烹。

故人知我意,千里寄竹萌。”

——苏轼《送笋芍药与公择二首其一》

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“笋者,竹萌也,可以为菜肴。” 这是古书《尔雅》中对笋的定义。东坡先生对于笋的喜爱人尽皆知,他曾在《於潜僧绿筠轩》中写出了流传后世的“老饕名言”:“宁可食无肉,不可居无竹。无肉令人瘦,无竹令人俗。”之后被贬到黄州的东坡先生依然想念竹笋的美味,在《初到黄州》中写道:“长江绕郭知鱼美,好竹连山觉笋香。好吃者,定知鱼和笋,味鲜而美,何况东坡乎?”

"The bamboo shoot, also known as 'bamboo sprout,' is a versatile ingredient in cooking." This definition of bamboo shoots is found in the ancient book "Erya." Su Dongpo's fondness for bamboo shoots is widely known. In "Yuqian Monk and Green Bamboo House," he famously wrote: "One can eat a meal without meat, but cannot live without bamboo." While exiled to Huangzhou, Su Dongpo's longing for the delicacy of bamboo shoots persisted. In his work “Arriving in Huangzhou,” he vividly describes “The beauty of fish along the winding Yangtze River, juxtaposed with the delightful aroma of bamboo shoots amidst lush mountains. Those with refined tastes would surely savor the harmonious combination of fish and bamboo shoots, their flavors a testament to freshness and delight. How could Su Dongpo resist?"

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春笋,可以说是春日第一鲜。赴十年之约,1996川菜·主厨餐厅主理人梁棣女士与欧阳应霁老师一行人来到四川邛崃,探访眉州东坡有机川熊猫竹笋种植基地。邛崃市有竹林面积47万余亩,是成都最大的竹源基地。

眉州东坡集团在邛崃数十万亩竹林间选择了最好的三千亩有机竹林,这里出产的雷竹笋,可以说是竹笋中的臻品。

Spring bamboo shoots are often considered the first culinary delight of the season. To honor a decade-old commitment, Ms. Liang Di, owner of Chef 1996 Restaurant, traveled to the Sichuan Panda Organic Bamboo Shoot Grove in Qionglai, Sichuan, accompanied by Mr. Au Yeung Ying Chai and others. Qionglai City boasts over 470,000 mu (approximately 310,670 hectares) of bamboo forests, making it the largest bamboo source in Chengdu.Amidst these expansive forests, the Meizhou Dongpo Group has meticulously selected 3,000 mu (approximately 1,988 hectares) of prime organic bamboo groves, where the Thunder Bamboo Shoots harvested are considered the epitome of quality among bamboo shoots.

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基地负责人魏鑫告诉我们,这里种植的都是细叶乌头雷竹良种,所产的雷竹笋含糖量极高,约20%,熊猫特别爱吃。如果说竹子是大米饭,那么雷竹笋就是“鲍鱼”,当春笋季结束的时候,熊猫会因为对竹笋的想念而减少进食,有的熊猫能瘦下十几斤之多。

Wei Xin, the person in charge, explained that they cultivate only the finest Thunder Bamboo shoots here. These shoots boast the highest sugar content among bamboo varieties, around 20%, making them a favorite among pandas. If bamboo is considered the staple rice for pandas, then Thunder Bamboo shoots are like "abalone." As the season for spring bamboo shoots comes to an end, pandas may eat less due to their strong cravings for bamboo shoots. Some pandas can lose more than ten kilograms as a result.

眉州东坡认养了一只大熊猫,它的名字叫“星星”

Mei Zhoudongpo adopted a panda named "Xingxing".

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冥冥之中,万事自有缘分。2024年3月19日,眉州东坡集团终生认养了生活在重庆动物园的大熊猫星星,并与动物园方面携手为熊猫保护、熊猫生存环境改善共同做出努力。眉州东坡集团会按月为星星送上新鲜可口的竹笋,光是这一点,就能够让其他熊猫宝宝眼红了。

In a twist of fate, on March 19, 2024, the Meizhou Dongpo Group made a lifelong commitment to adopt Xingxing, the giant panda residing in Chongqing Zoo. They've partnered with the zoo to enhance panda conservation efforts and improve their habitat. In support of this cause, the group will be sending Xingxing fresh and delicious bamboo shoots every month, a treat that would surely make other panda cubs green with envy.

四川省邛崃市润农竹木种植专业合作社理事会副主任 魏鑫

Wei Xin, Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors of the Runong Bamboo Planting Professional Cooperative in Qionglai City, Sichuan Province

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在这片竹林中,蕴藏着乡村振兴的希望。魏鑫还告诉我们:“地是政府的,苗是我们的,收成是大家的。”在这样的模式下,竹农的热情特别高涨,每亩产值可达数千元。大家一起奔着好日子努力,眉州东坡集团一直尽心扶助乡村振兴,让优质竹笋去到全国各地,去到大家的餐桌之上。

In these bamboo forests, lies the promise of rural revitalization. Wei Xin explained, "The land belongs to the government, the seedlings are ours, and the harvest is for everyone." With this approach, enthusiasm among bamboo farmers is at an all-time high, with yields per hectare reaching thousands of yuan. Together, we strive for better days, supported by the dedicated efforts of Meizhou Dongpo Group in rural revitalization. Their commitment ensures that premium bamboo shoots are delivered nationwide, adorning tables across the country.

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春笋的赏味期极短,一般大多几十天,但是1996川菜·主厨餐厅依然想要将四川春日的鲜美端上北京的餐桌,于是有机川熊猫竹笋以全程冷链方式来到北京,将鲜嫩控制到最好状态。

在1996川菜·主厨餐厅,有味道香醇的农家土猪,有川人手工腌制的腊肉,您能够品尝到最符合东坡先生饮食哲学的搭配,让有机川熊猫竹笋的温柔化为无尽赞叹。

The season for relishing spring bamboo shoots is incredibly brief, typically lasting only a few weeks. Nonetheless, Chef 1996 Restaurant is committed to bringing the freshness of Sichuan spring to the tables of Beijing. Thus, the Sichuan Panda Organic Bamboo Shoots are transported to Beijing using a complete cold chain process to ensure they remain fresh and tender.

Additionally, at Chef 1996 Restaurant, you can indulge in fragrant farmhouse pork and Sichuan-style handmade cured meat. You'll experience the most authentic flavors that align with Su Dongpo's dietary philosophy, allowing the delicate taste of Sichuan Panda Organic Bamboo Shoots to inspire endless admiration.

长江绕郭知鱼美,好竹连山觉笋香,

大好春光,人间至味,

何不一尝?

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