Christian Louboutin: 魅惑红底高跟鞋背后的故事

Christian Louboutin, the name of a French high-heeled shoe designer, is also one of the most successful and iconic luxury shoes brands. Red-soled shoes are the signature logo of Christian Louboutin. Today, we’ll talk about this attractive brand.

Christian Louboutin（克里斯提·鲁布托），一个法国的高跟鞋设计师，同时也是一个最成功、最具代表性的奢侈鞋品牌，红底鞋是Christian Louboutin 的招牌标识。今天，我们就来聊一聊这个迷人的品牌。

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About Author

作者介绍

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Denis Morisset丹尼斯·莫利塞特

Luxury Marketing Professor,

ESSEC Business School
法国巴黎ESSEC高等商学院，

奢侈品品牌管理教授

Occupied MD/CEO positions at Giorgio Armani, Pierre Balmain, Ralph Lauren and other luxury brands.
曾担任Giorgio Armani，Pierre Balmain，Ralph Lauren等奢侈品牌的MD/CEO

I worked 7 years in the shoes industry between 1993 and 2000. I was President and CEO of Sac & Thierry, one of the largest French shoes manufacturer at that time. I heard about Christian Louboutin for the 1st time in 1994 when I entered the very first store. He opened in Paris rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. But the brand was still very small and I didn’t pay much attention to it then, as I was more interested by Kenzo brand, part of LVMH. What I had not anticipated is that small this store I saw in 1994 would turn into one of the most successful luxury shoes brands.

1993年至2000年间，我在鞋业工作了7年。我曾是当时法国最大的鞋类制造商之一Sac & Thierry的总裁和CEO。1994年我第一次听说Christian Louboutin，当时我走进了他的第一家店——他开在巴黎的卢梭大道上。但当时这个品牌还很小，我并没有太关注它，当时我对LVMH旗下的Kenzo品牌更感兴趣。我没有想到的是，我在1994年看到的这家小店会变成最成功的奢侈鞋品牌之一。

Louboutin was valued last month at 2,25 Billion € when the Agnelli family’s investment holding Exor, which is the top Ferrari investor, announced that they will buy a 25 % stake in the brand. How could such a small brand become so successful? In this article, we will revisit today the brand’s and founder’s timeline.

上个月，当阿涅利家族的投资控股公司Exor宣布他们将购买该品牌25%的股份时，Louboutin的估值为22.5亿欧元。一家平凡的小鞋店如何获得今日的成功？本文将带您重温这个品牌和创始人的时间线。

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History of Christian Louboutin

Christian Louboutin的历史

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Born in France in 1963, with Egyptian roots, Christian Louboutin spent most of his early years with his mother and three sisters as his father was rarely present. He started dreaming up fantastical footwear and sketching women’s shoes when he was still a child. He said that his fascination for high heel shoes started when he visited, at the age of 12, the Musée national des arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie in Paris avenue Daumesnil and saw a sign forbidding women wearing high heel stiletto from entering the building for fear of damage to the expensive and fragile wood flooring. The image stayed in his mind, and later on he wanted to defy that by creating shoes that could break the rules, scratch wooden floors and would make women feel independent and empowered.

Christian Louboutin于1963年出生于法国，有着埃及血统，由于父亲很少出现，他早年的大部分时间都是和母亲及三个姐姐一起度过的。当他还是个孩子的时候，他就开始幻想梦幻般的鞋子并画出女鞋的草图。他说，他对高跟鞋的迷恋是从12岁时参观位于巴黎Daumesnil大街的非洲和大洋洲国家艺术博物馆时开始的，当时他看到了一个禁止穿高跟鞋的妇女进入建筑物的标志，因为害怕损坏昂贵而脆弱的木地板。这个形象一直留在他的脑海里，后来他想挑战这这一点，创造出可以打破规则、划破木地板，并且会让女性感到独立和有力量的鞋子。

But Louboutin was a rebellious child, he run away for home at 12 and was expelled from school at 16. He looked for jobs in odd places, like the Parisian cabaret Folies Bergère, and also famous night clubs like la Main bleue and le Palace. He did all sorts of jobs for the dancers, including creating shoes for them but without success. In that period, he often escaped Paris, to travel to Egypt and also did a 1-year initiation trip to India. In the early 80’s at 27, he settled down a little and worked with Charles Jourdan, French brand, where he learnt the ins and outs of shoemaking. He then met Roger Vivier, famous shoes designer, one of the inventors of the stiletto and became an apprentice in his workshop. Then his assistant and helped him organize in 1988 his brand’s retrospective at Musée des Arts et de la Mode.

但Louboutin是个叛逆的孩子，他12岁离家出走，16岁被学校开除。他在一些奇怪的地方找工作，比如巴黎的歌舞厅Folies Bergère，还有著名的夜总会如la Main bleue和le Palace。他为舞者们做了各种各样的工作，包括为他们制作鞋子，但都没有成功。在此期间，他经常逃离巴黎，去埃及旅行，还去印度做了1年的启蒙旅行。80年代初，27岁的他稍稍安定下来，在法国品牌Charles Jourdan工作，学习了制鞋的来龙去脉。之后，他遇到了著名的鞋类设计师Roger Vivier，也就是高跟鞋的发明者之一，并在他的工作室里当了学徒。之后成为他的助手，并在1988年帮助他在Musée des Arts et de la Mode举办品牌回顾展。

After working as a freelance designer for a time, Louboutin finally set up his brand and his first store in Paris in 1991 with the support of his friends Bruno Chambelland and Henri Seydoux. He was then 38 years old. Not all designers start their brand young, and like Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Tory Burch, Christian Louboutin belongs to this group of successful designers who started their brand after gaining maturity and experience with others.

在做了一段时间的自由设计师后，Louboutin终于在朋友Bruno Chambelland和Henri Seydoux的支持下，于1991年在巴黎建立了自己的品牌和第一家店铺。当时他38岁。并不是所有的设计师都是在年轻的时候就开始了自己的品牌，像Giorgio Armani、Christian Dior、Tory Burch、Christian Louboutin就属于这批成功的设计师，他们是在与别人的合作中变得成熟、获得经验后开始了自己的品牌。

Initially, the brand’s growth was a little slow, so in the early 90’s, Christian Louboutin also created couture shoes for many famous designer’s fashion shows, like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Azzaro, Givenchy, Lanvin, Chloe. This is smart because it probably brought him some additional revenues, but also added to his personal popularity in the world of fashion, which would benefit his brand. A good lesson to meditate for young designers.

最初，品牌的发展有些缓慢，所以在90年代初，Christian Louboutin还为许多著名设计师的时装秀设计了高级定制鞋，比如Jean-Paul Gaultier、Azzaro、Givenchy、Lanvin、Chloe。这是很明智的，因为这可能给他带来了一些额外的收入，同时也增加了他个人在时尚界的知名度，这将有利于他的品牌。给年轻设计师上了一堂很好的静心课。

An important milestone was in 1993 when he found the inspiration for his trademark red soles. He recalled: "My assistant was sitting there, painting her nails red. I took one look and decided to color my soles red as a statement for the season. Then I thought, 'Oh my god! Red soles are so flirtatious,' and my customers asked me not to stop."

一个重要的里程碑是在1993年，他找到了他标志性的红色鞋底的灵感。他回忆道："我的助手坐在那里，把她的指甲涂成红色。我看了一眼，决定把我的鞋底涂成红色，作为本季的宣言。然后我想，'天哪! 红色的鞋底太挑逗魅惑了'，我的顾客让我不要停下来。"

His artistic yet sexy shoes soon attracted the likes of Princess Caroline of Monaco, one of his early customers. Madonna wore his dangerously high heels in some of her videos, helping to introduce Louboutin to the world. Many actresses and celebrities followed, like Catherine Deneuve, Diane Van Furstenberg, later on Christina Aguilera, Shirley Coates, Joan Collins, Jennifer Lopez, Tina Turner, Marion Cotillard, Nicki Minaj, Gwyneth Paltrow. Sarah Jessica Parker wore a pair of shoes by Louboutin for her wedding and Britney Spears in her music video "If U Seek Amy". His single biggest client was American novelist Danielle Steel, who is known to own over 6,000 pairs of Louboutin and also purchased up to 80 pairs each time she was shopping in his stores.

他的艺术而又性感的鞋子很快就吸引了摩纳哥公主卡罗琳等人，这是他早期的客户之一。麦当娜在她的一些视频中穿着他那双危险的高跟鞋，帮助把Louboutin介绍给世界。许多女演员和名人都纷纷效仿，如Catherine Deneuve、Diane Van Furstenberg，后来又有Christina Aguilera、Shirley Coates、Joan Collins、Jennifer Lopez、Tina Turner、Marion Cotillard、Nicki Minaj、Gwyneth Paltrow。莎拉-杰西卡-帕克在婚礼上穿了一双Louboutin的鞋子，布兰妮-斯皮尔斯在她的音乐视频 "If U Seek Amy "中也穿了一双。他最大的一个客户是美国小说家丹妮尔-斯蒂尔，据悉她拥有6000多双Louboutin，每次在他的店里购物时也会购买多达80双。

Designers often develop strong personal relationships with their clients. This contribute to their success. This is particularly true for Christian Louboutin, who was also very much influenced by his clients who became his friends. In 2006, Louboutin expanded his brand into women's handbags, just after an opportunist collaboration with Louis Vuitton. He then started up his men's shoes line in 2011. While still largely associated with high heel shoes, the brand also developed flat shoes and sneakers for both men and women. Headquarters, show-room, historical store are all located in the Marais district of Paris, where Christian also owns a small workshop for couture shoes. All the production of RTW shoes is made in the brand’s factory, manufacturer, in Italy.

设计师通常会与客户建立牢固的个人关系。这为他们的成功做出了贡献。这对Christian Louboutin来说尤其如此，他也深受已经成为朋友的客户们的影响。2006年，Louboutin在与Louis Vuitton的一次偶然合作后，就将自己的品牌扩展到了女包领域。随后，他又在2011年开创了他的男鞋系列。虽然主要产品还是高跟鞋，但品牌也开发了男女平底鞋和运动鞋系列。Christian Louboutin的总部、展示厅、历史悠久的店铺都位于巴黎的玛莱区，在这里还拥有一个小型的高级定制鞋工作室。所有的成衣线的鞋的生产都是在品牌位于意大利的工厂、制造商进行的。

In 2014, the house launched Christian Louboutin make-up with New-York-based Batallure beauty company. Following its success, Louboutin signed in 2018 a license agreement with Puig Spanish beauty group for make-up for lips, nails and eyes, and also perfumes.

2014年，该品牌与纽约Batallure美容公司合作推出Christian Louboutin彩妆。成功之后，Louboutin在2018年与Puig西班牙美容集团签订了唇部产品、美甲产品和眼部的彩妆，以及香水的授权协议。

Today, Christian Louboutin has over 160 shops worldwide, global sales in the range of 1 billion US$. The biggest market is USA, followed by the Europe. The brand came to china a bit later, and has right now only 15 stores and a lot of room for expansion. I think that following the investment of the Agnelli family, the brand will invest more in China and Christian Louboutin managing director Alexis Mourot told recently Vogue Business that he saw a great opportunity to expand the brand in China and deploy further the brand’s distinctive, colorful and joyful spirit.

如今，Christian Louboutin在全球拥有160多家店铺，全球销售额在10亿美元左右。目前最大的市场是美国，其次是欧洲。这个品牌来到中国的时间比较晚，目前只有15家店，还有很大的扩张空间。我认为，继Agnelli家族的投资之后，品牌将加大在中国的投资力度，Christian Louboutin总经理Alexis Mourot近日对《Vogue Business》表示，他看到了在中国拓展品牌的大好机会，并进一步部署品牌独特、多彩和欢乐的精神。

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success factors

成功因素

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Let’s decode first the persona of Christian Louboutin. The key element to understand is his passion for travel for other cultures, not only India but also Egypt & Portugal where he owns houses today. As a born traveler and great collector, Christian surrounded himself with objects that nourished his taste for beauty, inspired his creativity. From the very beginning, he infused his creations with a wealth of motifs and colors inspired by his love for arts and other cultures. His creative universe is nourished by everything that surrounds him, his travels, pop culture, entertainment, dance, literature and cinema.

我们先来解读一下Christian Louboutin本人。要了解的关键因素是他对其他文化的旅行的热情，不仅是印度，还包括埃及和葡萄牙，他现在在那里拥有房子。作为一个天生的旅行家和伟大的收藏家，Christian身边的物品滋养了他对美的品味，激发了他的创造力。从一开始，他就将丰富的图案和色彩注入他的创作，灵感来自于他对艺术和其他文化的热爱。他的创作世界被周围的一切所滋养，他的旅行、流行文化、娱乐、舞蹈、文学和电影。

Considered as a magician who enhances women’s figures, Christian Louboutin’s creative vision is all around desire and seduction. But besides his fascination for shoes, his creativity relies on three pillars: Freedom and integrity is the first one, which is why he remained independent, mixing cultures is another one and endless search for uncompromising quality is the third one. This has been confirmed to me by all the senior executives I met at Louboutin in the past 10 years. I have been often in contact with the brand in Paris organizing visits of the show-rooms, stores and workshops in Paris for Chinese VIP clients or groups of students.

被认为是提升女性身材的魔术师，Christian Louboutin的创意是围绕着欲望和诱惑的。但是，除了对鞋子的迷恋，他的创造力还依赖于三个支柱：自由和正直是第一支柱，这也是他保持独立的原因，混合文化是另一个支柱，而无休止地追求不妥协的品质是第三个支柱。这一点在过去10年里，我在Louboutin遇到的所有高级管理人员都向我证实了。我经常在巴黎与该品牌联系，组织中国VIP客户或学生团体参观巴黎的展厅、门店和工作坊。

One year, I organized a luxury study trip in Paris for a large group of Chinese executives, doing their EMBA at Fudan university, and I asked Louboutin to organize for us a half day immersion in his world. My students were very surprised by the passion and happiness on the faces of all the managers we met in the Paris show-rooms. At the end of the day, they privatized the flagship store of Faubourg Saint-Honoré for us and then invited us to attend a night show at the Crazy horse cabaret, big surprise for everyone!

有一年，我为一大批在复旦大学攻读EMBA的中国高管组织了一次巴黎的奢侈品考察活动，并且我请Louboutin为我们组织了一次半天的沉浸在他的世界里的活动。我的学生们对我们在巴黎展厅遇到的所有经理们脸上的激情和快乐感到非常惊讶。最后，他们为我们包场了Faubourg Saint-Honoré旗舰店，然后邀请我们去参加Crazy horse歌舞厅的夜场表演，给大家带来了巨大的惊喜！事实上，Louboutin与他们有着特殊的合作关系，他们希望我们了解舞者和歌舞团的世界对Louboutin和品牌的重要性。

Actually, Louboutin has a special partnership with them; they wanted us to understand how important was the world of dancers and cabaret to Louboutin and to the brand. Indeed, the personality of Christian strongly impacts the brand and company culture and this is also something that came out during all our visits to the brand. It is really around passion and fun: as I explained already, most employees share the same passion for the brand, are happy to be there and this happiness comes with a fun element brought by the playful & eclectic personality of Christian himself and the fantasy whimsical world that surrounds him.

的确，Christian的个性强烈地影响着品牌和企业文化，这也是我们在所有参观品牌的过程中体现出来的。这其实是围绕着激情和乐趣：正如我已经解释过的，大多数员工都对品牌有着同样的激情，他们很高兴能在那里工作，而这种幸福感来自于Christian本人的俏皮和不拘一格的个性以及他周围的奇幻世界所带来的乐趣元素。

You know, strong luxury brands always have iconic creations and products, and Louboutin is no exception. It started with that vision of a sign at a museum forbidding the wearing of high heel shoes that could scratch the floor. It became the "founding" element of the brand as he started to draw and redesign the shoe he saw on the sign. It inspired the iconic Pigalle shoe and was reinvented over the seasons. The name Louboutin is therefore often associated with high heels. Some of the other most famous models include the Nudes range, the pansy pumps, the hot chicks.

要知道，强大的奢侈品牌总是有标志性的作品和产品，Louboutin也不例外。它的起源是，在博物馆里看到了一个“禁止穿高跟鞋，以免划伤地板”的牌子。这成为了品牌的 "创始 "元素，因为他开始绘制并重新设计他在标志上看到的鞋子。它的灵感来自于标志性的Pigalle鞋，并随着季节的变化而不断革新。因此，Louboutin这个名字经常和高跟鞋联系在一起。其他一些最著名的款式包括Nudes系列、the pansy pumps、the hot chicks。

Equally iconic are the Louis sneaker and the nail polish.

同样具有代表性的还有路易运动鞋和指甲油。

Another iconic product was inspired by the vision of Princess Diana photographed alone in front of the Taj Mahal, apparently a bit lonely and sad. Christian decided to create a pair of slippers ornated with the letters LOVE, so that she would never forget how much she was loved.

另一个标志性产品的灵感来自于戴安娜王妃独自在泰姬陵前拍照的画面，显然有些孤独和悲伤。Christian决定设计一双饰有LOVE字母的拖鞋，让她永远不会忘记自己是多么的被爱。

The brand has strong visual codes that help brand recognition; of course, the red sole, but also the studs that are present on both men and women shoes. They enhance the sensual aspect of the shoe and strengthen the power to wear Louboutin. Colors are also important and sometimes can be flashy. Christian is always trying to elevate his creations at the rank of art and each creation is at the crossroads between a practical object and an art piece.

Christian Louboutin品牌有很强的视觉密码，有助于品牌识别；红色的鞋底，还有男女鞋上都有的铆钉。它们增强了鞋子的感官效果，增强了穿Louboutin的力量。颜色也很重要，有时也会让人眼前一亮。Christian一直试图将自己的创作提升到艺术的等级，每一件作品都处于实用物品和艺术作品之间的十字路口。

From 26 February 2020 to 3 January 2021, the Palais de la Porte Dorée presented an exhibition dedicated to the work and imagination of Louboutin. You could see one of his first creations, the Maquereau shoe made of metallic leather and directly inspired by the iridescence of the fish in the Tropical Aquarium.

从2020年2月26日到2021年1月3日，多雷门宫举办了一场专门针对Louboutin的作品和想象力的展览。你可以看到他的第一件作品之一，金属皮革制成的Maquereau鞋，其灵感直接来源于热带水族馆中鱼的彩虹色。

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Branding Tool

品牌工具

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Louboutin was a great fan of collaborations, and his collaborations were always smart and relevant, because they have strong authenticity, as they are all related to Louboutin himself. Most of the time, it is the brands and people who come to Louboutin, not the other way around. And he will consider them only if he feels personally connected to them through meetings, travels and conversations. For instance, he collaborated with artisans, craftsmen in Bhutan, Senegal, India, Mexico, with artists such as Dita von Teese, photographer David Lynch, singer Mika.

Louboutin是一个非常喜欢合作的人，他的合作作品总是很聪明，也很贴切，因为这些作品都和Louboutin本人有关，所以有很强的原创性。大多数时候，是品牌和人找上门来，而不是相反。而只有当他通过会议、旅行和对话感觉到自己与他们的个人联系时，他才会考虑他们。比如，他与不丹、塞内加尔、印度、墨西哥的工匠、手工艺人合作，与艺术家迪塔-冯-蒂斯、摄影师大卫-林奇、歌手米卡等合作。

He made in 2009 a very original collaboration with champagne brand Piper Heidsick to connect with a rather audacious ritual of the 19th century when Russian noblers used to toast champagne in ballerinas’ slippers to celebrate their talent. This tradition was adapted in a more provocative, fetishistic way during Folies Bergères golden age when men used to toast in the dancers’ shoes as a sign of admiration. For this, Piper Heidsieck released in limited edition in 2009, a crystal stiletto heel-shaped “Champagne flute”, in a fancy shoebox along with a special Louboutin-edition bottle of Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut.

2009年，他与香槟品牌Piper Heidsick进行了一次非常原创的合作，与19世纪的一个相当大胆的仪式联系在一起，当时俄罗斯贵族穿着芭蕾舞演员的拖鞋敬酒香槟，赞美他们的才华。在Folies Bergères的黄金时代，这一传统被以更挑衅、更恋物的方式进行了调整，当时男人们习惯用舞者的鞋来敬酒，以示欣赏。为此，Piper Heidsieck在2009年推出了限量版的水晶高跟鞋 "香槟笛"，装在一个花哨的鞋盒里，同时还有一瓶Louboutin特别版的Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut香槟。

Louboutin was also invited in 2011 as to be a celebrity “Fan” at Mandarin Oriental Hotel. He then launched his first pop-up nail bar in 2017, 2018 in several Mandarin Oriental hotels in the world. Also, Mandarin Oriental proposed “Be my Parisian Valentine by Christian Louboutin” stay packages in 2018 that included “Christian Louboutin Manicure Experience. In 2012, he was commissioned by Disney to create a modern-day Cinderella-inspired pair of slippers limited to just 20 pieces. In 2017, there was also a new Disney collaboration for the release of Star Wars 8, the last Jedi. Disney asked Louboutin this time to create 4 pair of shoes for the 4 main female characters of the last Star Wars episode.

2011年，Louboutin也受邀成为文华东方酒店的明星 "粉丝"。随后，他于2017年、2018年在全球多家文华东方酒店推出了第一家爆款美甲吧。另外，文华东方酒店在2018年提出了 "做我的巴黎情人 by Christian Louboutin "入住套餐，其中包括 "Christian Louboutin美甲体验"。2012年，他受迪士尼委托，设计了一双以现代灰姑娘为灵感的拖鞋，限量20只。2017年，还为《星球大战8：最后的绝地武士》的上映进行了新的迪士尼合作。迪士尼这次请Louboutin为《星球大战》最后一集的4个主要女性角色设计了4双鞋。

Christian also designed in 2015, 2016, 2019 a small number of handbags and shoes for the runway of his friend, Sabyasachi, Indian designer’s annual couture show held in Mumbai and in 2017, the Louboutin X Sabyasachi collection was released with a limited quantity of made-to-measure items that incorporated sarees, ribbons and embroidery into Louboutin’s design, made available for sale worldwide. In 2019, babouche slippers were created in collaboration with Morocco Palace, the Royal Mansour.

2015年、2016年、2019年，Christian还为好友Sabyasachi设计了少量的手袋和鞋子，印度设计师在孟买举办的年度高级定制秀，2017年，Louboutin X Sabyasachi系列发布了限量定做的单品，将纱裙、丝带和刺绣融入Louboutin的设计中，在全球范围内销售。2019年，他与与摩洛哥皇室曼苏尔宫合作打造了babouche拖鞋。

Louboutin also worked on several CSR driven collaborations like his limited editions with La Maison Rose for Senegal women and a similar one in Mexico with the Lexican Fundacion, de las Haciendas, in favour of local maya culture and craftsmanship.

Louboutin还参与了一些企业社会责任驱动的合作，比如他与La Maison Rose为塞内加尔女性推出的限量版，以及在墨西哥与Lexican Fundacion, de las Haciendas的类似合作，以支持当地玛雅文化和手工艺。

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Conclusion

结语

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Luxury brands are often defined by their uniqueness, but also their brand integrity. This applies particularly well to Louboutin. For me, a little like Hermès, Louboutin has created a unique world, his own world, and he never compromises with his personal vision and taste. He is never trying to follow trends. He managed to kept both his design independence and his financial independence, and this is what gives this brand a really integrity. It will not take long for Louboutin to gain the same success in China as in the rest of the world. Keep a close eye on the brand evolution!

奢侈品牌往往以其独特性来定义自己，同时也以其品牌尊严来定义自己。这一点对Louboutin尤其适用。对我来说，有点像爱马仕，Louboutin创造了一个独特的世界，他自己的世界，他从不妥协个人的眼光和品味。他从不试图追随潮流。他成功地保持了自己的设计独立和经济独立，而这正是这个品牌真正完整的原因。用不了多久，Louboutin就会在中国获得和世界其他地区一样的成功。请密切关注该品牌的发展!

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