第一次来贵阳的人，多半会被这里的吃法绕晕：

一碗粉配十几种辣椒，路边铁架上烤的豆腐，蘸碟比主菜还讲究。本地人吃小吃只认三个字——趁热、蘸水、不将就。这篇不写游客堆出来的网红清单，只说我会带外地朋友反复吃的7样，每样都藏点门道。

01 肠旺面：

肥肠、血旺、脆臊，加肠油和脆臊炼出的红油，这碗面是贵阳人一天的正经开场。面是鸡蛋碱水面，嚼着弹牙，汤红油亮却不腻。认准罗记这类老字号，记得让师傅多舀一勺脆臊——猪五花炸到酥，是整碗的灵魂。

02 花溪牛肉粉：

贵阳人清晨的另一半，是花溪牛肉粉。牛骨熬几个小时的汤，清得见底，鲜味却厚；雪白米粉烫过，铺上薄切卤牛肉，自己动手加糊辣椒、夹泡莲花白。花溪的王记、飞碗都是老牌，老吃法是先喝汤、再加辣，泡莲花白回甜解腻，千万别错过。

03 丝娃娃：

丝娃娃原名春卷，薄皮裹馅，像襁褓里的娃娃，因此得名。十几种素菜码满一桌，撕张米皮，想包什么包什么，淋上酸汤蘸水，一口一个，1998年就拿了全国首届中华名小吃。近年流行红酸汤丝娃娃，酸汤要自然发酵，酸得清亮开胃。记住：配菜才是主角，贪多反而吃不出层次。

04 雷家豆腐圆子：

同治年间，贵阳雷万铨夫妇开豆腐作坊，把卖不完的豆腐捣成泥，拌香料葱花，捏成核桃大小下油锅，意外成了畅销货。油炸豆腐圆子更是一火再火，一卖就是一百五十多年。外壳酥脆、内里嫩滑，蘸辣椒面吃，青云市集就有老字号门店，是省级非遗。

05 恋爱豆腐果：

巴掌大的豆腐在炭火上烤到鼓包，划开一道口，灌进折耳根、辣椒调的蘸水，咬下去先脆后烫。名字听着浪漫，其实就是街边摊的日常，几块钱一个，民生路一带的老摊子最地道。注意别一上来就咬大口，小心蘸水烫嘴。

06 洋芋粑：

土豆蒸熟压成饼，煎到两面金黄，配辣椒面或甜酱。贵阳人离不开土豆的程度，不输折耳根。夜市上洋芋粑摊一天能卖几百个，挑现煎的、边角带焦脆的买，提前炸好晾着的那种，口感差一截。

07 老素粉：

贵阳素粉，酸粉配油辣椒、脆臊碎和葱花，不加肉也香得扎实。粉是发酵酸粉，带一股特别的酸香，外地朋友第一次可能吃不惯，建议从微辣起步。想找地道的，往菜市场门口和街边小店走，不用看门面。

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