以前嫌芋艿没味道，学会这个做法之后真香了

芋艿这东西，喜欢的人是真喜欢，不喜欢的人嫌它黏糊糊。我是前者，尤其是炖得软烂、吸满汤汁的那种，一口下去糯叽叽的，比肉还香。做这道菜选小芋艿最好，就是那种拳头大小、皮薄好剥的。买的时候挑沉手的，说明水分足、不空心。大芋艿也可以，但口感偏粉，没有小芋艿那么糯。先把芋艿洗干净，放锅里煮个十来分钟，煮到筷子能插进去就行，捞出来过凉水，皮一搓就掉了。这招比生着削皮省事多了，而且不手痒——芋艿的黏液沾手上是真的痒，别问我怎么知道的。

配菜我一般放五花肉和香菇，五花肉切薄片，煸出油之后特别香，香菇泡发切块。也有人放虾米或者干贝，鲜味更足，看个人喜好。锅里放一点油，五花肉下锅煸到微微焦黄，放蒜末和香菇炒香，加一勺生抽、半勺老抽、一点蚝油，翻炒均匀。然后把芋艿倒进去，轻轻翻两下，别太用力，芋艿容易碎。

加热水，水量刚好没过芋艿就行，大火烧开转中小火焖个十五分钟。焖到汤汁收得差不多的时候，撒点葱花，尝一下咸淡，不够再加盐。喜欢的话可以勾个薄芡，汤汁裹在芋艿上更入味，不勾也行，看自己习惯。

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出锅的时候芋艿已经炖得软软的，用筷子一夹就开，表面吸满了肉汁和香菇的鲜味，咬一口又糯又香。配白米饭绝了，我每次都要多煮半碗饭。这道菜做起来不难，就是焖的时候别走开太久，汤汁收干了容易糊底。芋艿本身没什么味道，全靠汤汁入味，所以焖的时间要够，不然里面淡外面咸，口感差很多。天冷的时候炖这么一锅，满屋子都是香气。芋艿软糯，五花肉焦香，香菇提鲜，简简单单一锅菜，吃得特别踏实。有时候越朴素的东西越让人惦记，这大概就是家常菜的魔力吧。