炒了20年菜，才知这4样“忌”葱姜蒜，以前总做错

朋友们，咱们平时在家炒菜，是不是习惯性动作就是“热锅凉油，葱姜蒜爆香”？我做了近20年美食内容，跟无数大厨聊过天，自己也是天天围着灶台转，这“三巨头”几乎成了中餐的灵魂。但说实话，我也是吃了很多次“哑巴亏”，才慢慢琢磨明白一个道理：这厨房里的调料，真不是放得越多越香，有时候，好心办坏事，一把葱姜蒜下去，反而把整道菜的风骨给折了。今天咱们就好好掰扯掰扯这4种“忌”葱姜蒜的菜，看完您准保涨知识，下次再遇到它们，记得管住手，把舞台还给食材本身。

第一种：清炒时蔬之“贵族”——荷塘三宝（莲藕、菱角、鸡头米）

这类菜，吃的就是一个“清”字。您想啊，刚从水里挖出来的莲藕，白白嫩嫩，切开还挂着丝，那股子清甜是带着水汽的。这时候您要是“哐哐”两刀拍点蒜末、撒把葱花下去，高温一激，蒜的刺激性气味瞬间就把藕的清脆给裹住了。我试过无数次，放了蒜的炒藕片，吃起来总有股“浊”气，回甘没了，只剩满嘴的佐料味。

正确的做法是什么？热油，只用一点点薄盐，甚至只用油和食材本身的水分去“焖炒”。藕片下锅，大火快颠，锅边淋一勺清水，靠水蒸气催熟。起锅前，您可以撒几粒枸杞或者淋几滴香醋提个味，但葱姜蒜，坚决不能放。菱角和鸡头米更娇贵，它们自带淀粉质的软糯回甘，葱姜蒜一下去，那股子“土腥味”没去成，反而把清香给毁了。记住，对待这种“出水芙蓉”般的蔬菜，咱们要当个“哑巴厨师”，少说话（少放料），多做事（控火候）。

第二种：高端海鲜之“刺身级”——清蒸石斑鱼或大闸蟹

我知道有人要反驳：“蒸鱼不搁姜丝去腥吗？”别急，咱们得分鱼。像鲤鱼、草鱼这类底栖鱼，土腥味重，姜葱是救星。但如果您花大价钱买了一条鲜活的石斑鱼或者东星斑，再放姜丝葱段去蒸，那就是暴殄天物了。

真正顶级的清蒸海鱼，讲究的是“断生即食”，鱼肉呈蒜瓣状，鲜甜至极。葱姜蒜的辛辣会麻痹您的味蕾，让您尝不出鱼肉里那丝天然的甘甜。去腥？活鱼现杀，血水处理干净，鱼皮上的黏液刮掉，腥味就去了八成。蒸的时候，我只会放几片薄薄的肥膘猪肉铺在鱼身上，利用猪油渗进去的香气，这叫“以脂提鲜”，而不是“以辛遮味”。蒸出来的汤汁倒掉，铺上红椒丝和葱绿丝，但注意，这只是点缀，淋上热油激发的是葱丝的香味，而不是让它进锅里和鱼一起蒸。大闸蟹同理，清蒸时垫几片紫苏叶足矣，葱姜蒜的浓烈气味会掩盖蟹黄那种极致丰腴的油脂香，那才是暴殄天物。

第三种：素菜之“荤”——鸡蛋（尤其是炒嫩蛋）

炒鸡蛋放葱花，这似乎是天经地义的吧？韭菜炒蛋、葱花炒蛋，确实香。但我要说的是追求极致嫩滑口感的“西式炒蛋”或“水炒蛋”。当您把鸡蛋打散，想要炒出那种像云朵一样湿润、入口即化的效果时，千万别放葱花和姜末。

为什么？因为鸡蛋在凝固的过程中，蛋白质网络非常脆弱。葱姜蒜里的辛辣素，在高温下会加速鸡蛋水分流失，并且产生一种微妙的“铁锈味”。很多人炒出来的鸡蛋老、硬，以为是火大了，其实是因为放了葱花一起搅打，葱汁破坏了蛋液的保水结构。我做这道菜时，蛋液里只加一点盐和几滴白醋（去腥且更蓬松），油温三成热下锅，全程小火慢推。出锅后，撒上一点现磨的黑胡椒碎，或者淋上鱼子酱，那才是对鸡蛋本味的尊重。葱姜蒜？那是炒老蛋、做卤蛋用的，嫩蛋不需要它们来“抢戏”。

第四种：清爽汤品之“君子”——冬瓜薏米汤或丝瓜豆腐汤

汤品是结尾的句号，讲究个清亮回甘。冬瓜性寒，很多人觉得要放姜片“暖胃”，这是养生的说法，但从味觉美学上，冬瓜汤里的姜味如果掌握不好，会变得“辣嗓子”。尤其是夏天喝的消暑冬瓜汤，放了几片老姜进去，整锅汤都带着一股子药味，冬瓜那种吸饱了汤汁、入口即化的清甜全被毁了。

这类素汤，要的是食材本味融合后的“醇”。冬瓜和薏米煮出胶质感，丝瓜煮出淡淡的青草香，它们需要的是几颗瑶柱或者一小撮虾皮来提鲜，靠的是咸鲜味带出清甜。如果非要放葱，只能起锅后撒一点生葱碎，靠汤的余温烫熟，产生一种“假性”的葱香，那是为了点缀视觉效果，而不是为了入味。姜更是大忌，一口下去，满嘴姜辣，后面再喝第二口，味觉就钝了，品不出汤的层次了。http://mobile.mumudingb.cn/Article/details/968463.sHtML
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http://mobile.yizhanxianwei.com/Article/details/007441.sHtML
http://mobile.wangmuzhengrong.com/Article/details/714498.sHtML
http://mobile.kingho1314.com/Article/details/729790.sHtML
http://mobile.qbt0a9.com/Article/details/255571.sHtML
http://mobile.jasminesulli.com/Article/details/819930.sHtML
http://mobile.henghuiups.com/Article/details/463041.sHtML
http://mobile.xuanheng03.com/Article/details/203471.sHtML
http://mobile.longnianguangchang.com/Article/details/950040.sHtML
http://mobile.minshengwuliu.com/Article/details/749883.sHtML
http://mobile.huangdengming.com/Article/details/661583.sHtML
http://mobile.xuanheng04.com/Article/details/997623.sHtML
http://mobile.zhencaijiaoyu.com/Article/details/869262.sHtML
http://mobile.qianlongman.com/Article/details/697894.sHtML
http://mobile.gt-plexera.com/Article/details/751225.sHtML
http://mobile.qdbeibeier.com/Article/details/115702.sHtML
http://mobile.chpa2w.com/Article/details/369632.sHtML
http://mobile.3sx3x9.com/Article/details/156052.sHtML
http://mobile.tianmaqianlong.com/Article/details/171341.sHtML
http://mobile.xingdunjiancai.com/Article/details/078972.sHtML
http://mobile.gshuanjingkeji.com/Article/details/288311.sHtML
http://mobile.lqygwjc.com/Article/details/177416.sHtML
http://mobile.gongbaihui.com/Article/details/303416.sHtML
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http://mobile.mumudingb.cn/Article/details/144301.sHtML
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http://www.bcyrg.cn/Article/details/597518.sHtML
http://www.yizhanxianwei.com/Article/details/535899.sHtML
http://www.wangmuzhengrong.com/Article/details/071828.sHtML
http://www.kingho1314.com/Article/details/405232.sHtML
http://www.qbt0a9.com/Article/details/496220.sHtML
http://www.jasminesulli.com/Article/details/904611.sHtML
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http://www.wzmuse.com/Article/details/596711.sHtML
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http://news.gt-plexera.com/Article/details/593813.sHtML
http://news.qdbeibeier.com/Article/details/554929.sHtML
http://news.chpa2w.com/Article/details/090030.sHtML
http://news.3sx3x9.com/Article/details/600865.sHtML
http://news.tianmaqianlong.com/Article/details/749696.sHtML
http://news.xingdunjiancai.com/Article/details/060873.sHtML
http://news.gshuanjingkeji.com/Article/details/241693.sHtML
http://news.lqygwjc.com/Article/details/284031.sHtML
http://news.gongbaihui.com/Article/details/940890.sHtML
http://news.zhengjiweiye.com/Article/details/866329.sHtML

结语：

看完这4种菜，您是不是也恍然大悟了？就像我开头说的，葱姜蒜是我们的“老伙计”，但它们绝不是“万能钥匙”。做菜如做人，有时候要懂得“留白”，懂得“收敛”。把那股子想要“指点江山”的劲儿收一收，让莲藕去甜它的，让鱼肉去鲜它的，让鸡蛋去滑它的，我们当个好观众，只负责用火候和油盐去鼓掌，这菜的味道反而更高级了。https://github.com/silvacharles10/bnatkz/blob/main/keke_252022.md
https://github.com/schaefersarah472/azbvnr/blob/main/keke_616972.md
https://github.com/fishereddie38/uztdhz/blob/main/keke_618611.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_257334.md
https://github.com/myerscarrie0052/thnzns/blob/main/keke_685401.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_996774.md
https://github.com/norrisraymond972/frklxc/blob/main/keke_015626.md
https://github.com/fieldsjeffrey025/hnvwhy/blob/main/keke_372970.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_894601.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_201540.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_636280.md
https://github.com/silvacharles10/bnatkz/blob/main/keke_806937.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_365407.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_625176.md
https://github.com/millerjason327/dexewa/blob/main/keke_634884.md
https://github.com/mejiamichelle99/cmyewu/blob/main/keke_021970.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_721720.md
https://github.com/harrisdarrell4/kqlqbs/blob/main/keke_524242.md
https://github.com/schaefersarah472/azbvnr/blob/main/keke_987102.md
https://github.com/fieldsjeffrey025/hnvwhy/blob/main/keke_128942.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_295850.md
https://github.com/silvacharles10/bnatkz/blob/main/keke_859501.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_427640.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_638698.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_833497.md
https://github.com/fishereddie38/uztdhz/blob/main/keke_625068.md
https://github.com/schaefersarah472/azbvnr/blob/main/keke_174325.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_865106.md
https://github.com/harrisdarrell4/kqlqbs/blob/main/keke_864140.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_696778.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_229450.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_477938.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_711099.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_608620.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_157507.md
https://github.com/mejiamichelle99/cmyewu/blob/main/keke_214412.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_778879.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_332035.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_463445.md
https://github.com/silvacharles10/bnatkz/blob/main/keke_608552.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_578703.md
https://github.com/schaefersarah472/azbvnr/blob/main/keke_923325.md
https://github.com/fishereddie38/uztdhz/blob/main/keke_215330.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_394675.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_430875.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_281800.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_710572.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_653760.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_320847.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_678410.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_905746.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_400155.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_452623.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_833352.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_506875.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_920981.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_848764.md
https://github.com/mejiamichelle99/cmyewu/blob/main/keke_606020.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_519765.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_621402.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_711894.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_383474.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_352620.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_611956.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_020153.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_508632.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_769206.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_562155.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_177248.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_317977.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_322302.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_289570.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_306907.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_696264.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_475470.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_019580.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_130948.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_867385.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_816207.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_579603.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_452965.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_192091.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_987577.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_331077.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_803615.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_174728.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_232102.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_328174.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_018653.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_266938.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_370520.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_421071.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_956031.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_434712.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_897055.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_981102.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_367323.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_892708.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_751768.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_105119.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_812383.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_987066.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_664585.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_727948.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_994680.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_231571.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_098609.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_094335.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_322122.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_060898.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_630595.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_036201.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_059603.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_895220.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_675696.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_902512.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_578120.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_573117.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_378288.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_087592.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_617889.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_800043.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_948224.md
https://github.com/mejiamichelle99/cmyewu/blob/main/keke_380836.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_720740.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_238623.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_894975.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_280873.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_904868.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_740258.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_718978.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_912707.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_667342.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_051846.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_241011.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_542351.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_325101.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_883388.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_775483.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_235837.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_675262.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_675474.md
https://github.com/mejiamichelle99/cmyewu/blob/main/keke_338154.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_276412.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_759553.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_417702.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_461691.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_422792.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_091141.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_530522.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_371716.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_048498.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_893642.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_559675.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_721125.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_041743.md
https://github.com/davissandra0392/zrkxqq/blob/main/keke_371247.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_509366.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_549012.md
https://github.com/armstrongveronica0/kzgutj/blob/main/keke_133418.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_728994.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_453045.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_770175.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_781318.md
https://github.com/wattsjames204/ciczyb/blob/main/keke_674467.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_522956.md
https://github.com/boothtodd138/zfohny/blob/main/keke_378396.md
https://github.com/kramerwhitney5356/drchgk/blob/main/keke_359617.md
https://github.com/pottererica5319/mvjxvv/blob/main/keke_653574.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_731970.md
https://github.com/huberwilliam5340/xryjjo/blob/main/keke_093730.md
https://github.com/ryanchristina6323/ayotgl/blob/main/keke_931644.md
https://github.com/castrodaniel170/tymkcu/blob/main/keke_900467.md
https://github.com/harrischad72/kmbhyd/blob/main/keke_491031.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_409541.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_708840.md
https://github.com/johnsbrittany60/axgvlp/blob/main/keke_867172.md
https://github.com/patelheather0/xcysro/blob/main/keke_867698.md
https://github.com/medinajennifer7305/rmyjdo/blob/main/keke_936531.md
https://github.com/leeroger374/lnmrqj/blob/main/keke_330816.md
https://github.com/ramosmary394/xxdvtf/blob/main/keke_906691.md
https://github.com/hunterkimberly12/pvdjtp/blob/main/keke_157319.md
https://github.com/terryjanet81/qugyxh/blob/main/keke_924883.md
https://github.com/burgesstyler0761/zcbsdl/blob/main/keke_877084.md
https://github.com/boydteresa0569/rfizit/blob/main/keke_534139.md
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