今逢大暑，适当进补一下、吃一道营养的“大暑菜”，三伏就不受苦

我家每到七八月份，厨房就像打仗一样热闹。我妈坐在灶台边看我忙活，说的最多的一句就是你这山东汉子又开始蒸蒸炒炒了。可我媳妇在旁边笑着补一句，别光忙，今天得做得清爽点，别让一家人吃得上火。那天中午我照着夏日打卡季的思路做了猪肉蒸丝瓜，还把茄子烧豆角和紫苏烧鸡翅都端上桌。结果最先被家里两个十岁左右的小家伙抢走的不是鸡翅，也不是茄子，是那盘丝瓜。你说离谱不离谱，肉蒸丝瓜这种清淡路子，居然让他们吃得最欢。

其实我做夏天菜就一个原则，别跟太阳硬碰硬。夏天胃口容易乱，老人又讲究脾胃稳，孩子还要长身体，得把口味放清楚，把蒸煮炖的比例提上来。今天就按这套夏日打卡季的思路，把三道菜怎么让一家人吃得舒服、吃得有劲讲明白。你看完照做，后厨也不会翻车。

猪肉蒸丝瓜里最关键的是把肉的鲜香压进丝瓜里。丝瓜这东西水分足，夏天吃不顶嗓子，清脆的口感能把油腻感降下来。猪眉毛肉或梅花肉切片后腌十分钟，用盐、葱姜、生抽、蚝油、水淀粉、食用油抓匀。这里抓匀别嫌麻烦，肉片要薄，水淀粉能把肉汁锁住，蒸的时候不容易变柴。丝瓜切滚刀块，拌少许盐和食用油，铺在盘底，肉片铺在丝瓜上就行。

上锅蒸十分钟，火候稳一点。蒸制时间要卡住，蒸太久丝瓜会塌，蒸太少肉片又不入味。出锅撒葱花就完事。你要是怕腻，蚝油别加多，生抽也别猛，靠肉的油脂和葱姜香气把味道提起来就够了。我们家老人吃这道菜很省心，牙口不太好的也能夹着吃，小孩配米饭也能一碗一碗往下扒。

说到夏天的蒸菜，很多人会忽略一个点，肉和菜的搭配是为了让蛋白质和膳食纤维同桌。猪肉提供优质蛋白，丝瓜提供水分和膳食纤维，蒸的方式少油少烟，吃完胃里不堵。以前在山东家里，夏天常做丝瓜打卤、丝瓜炒蛋，近些年条件好了，家人更愿意用蒸的方式把味道“锁”住。你照着这个配方蒸一次，基本就知道为啥孩子爱吃了。

茄子烧豆角这道就属于夏天饭桌上的硬菜路子。茄子怕油吸太多，豆角又要炒到“起虎皮”，这两点做对了，口感才会从软烂里带点韧劲。茄子切条，泡一下再沥干，下锅炒软。泡的目的很现实，不是玄学，是为了减少茄子里的发苦成分和多余水分。豆角加少量底盐炒到起皱起虎皮，表面有点焦褐色，香味就出来了。

然后把炒软的茄子和豆角混合，放蒜粒和辣椒炒香。味道就靠这一步把层次立起来。最后加鸡精，少许盐，生抽调味就行。别一上来就猛加酱油，那样颜色重味道死，茄子容易发苦。我们家老人一般不太吃辣，所以我会用辣椒只爆香，吃的时候再看家里人能不能接受。两个孩子通常就盯着蒜香那一口，夹一筷子就停不下。

茄子和豆角都是夏季常见菜，家里人买得勤。网络上也常见营养科普，茄子含有多种多酚类物质，豆角属于豆类蔬菜，膳食纤维和植物蛋白都比较可观。你做成这种烧法，不是让它变得越油越香，而是让口感和香气把人留住，然后吃下去的就是更均衡的组合。山东人吃饭讲究“下得去、咽得下”，这道菜用米饭一拌就很顶。

紫苏烧鸡翅是我最想让大家学会的一道，因为它解决了夏天鸡肉容易吃腻的问题。鸡中翅先对半切开，腌制得够味才有底。料酒1勺、生抽1勺、蚝油1勺、盐、糖、胡椒粉抓拌均匀后腌30分钟。腌够时间，肉里才有底味。腌好后再加玉米淀粉3勺抓拌，让鸡翅外层有薄薄的粉壳。这样煎的时候更容易外焦里嫩，吃起来不柴。

煎的时候一定要多油，先不翻动，煎到底面定型再翻面，煎到两面焦焦脆脆盛出备用。锅里留底油，爆香洋葱和红椒，倒入鸡翅翻炒几下。最后紫苏叶对半剪开下锅翻炒变软，试味后出锅。紫苏这味道一进厨房就明显不一样，清香压住了油脂感，吃两口就不那么容易腻。我家孩子一开始不一定知道紫苏是什么，尝一口就问你这是不是特别的草香，真香。

紫苏叶在中式饮食里不算冷门，很多地区用它煮汤、做拌菜、也做烧制去腥增香。你把它用在鸡翅这种油脂相对高的食材上，逻辑是对的。再加上洋葱和红椒的甜香和微辣，整体不会死咸也不会单一。用淀粉做薄壳煎制，表面脆、里面嫩，夏天大家胃口变差的时候，这种口感更容易被接受。

夏日打卡季的这三道菜，其实都在围绕同一件事办事：给一大家子吃，既要好吃也要不折腾。蒸丝瓜省油省时，烧茄子豆角把香味做足，煎紫苏鸡翅用焦脆和清香把油腻感压下去。老人吃蒸菜更踏实，孩子喜欢焦脆香味，年轻人看见丰富颜色也愿意多吃两口。https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/QroRwnLw_868729.md
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https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/PlPiGkUe_783433.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/AUFmIpYa_097841.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/SbdnlDbM_520917.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/GUkOtXvM_412176.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/OKgkUZxP_260675.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/SHQOZLDJ_976130.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/MUYDvfvu_202166.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/ZSjbfFwY_255076.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/IIGkBgKJ_294974.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/EkhEWoYd_865325.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/LKOfPTQa_505096.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/DzWoTdCZ_902400.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/BSXDCVUt_258231.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/DZqCURqv_263135.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/KUQOTEIf_862782.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/TrPmywGl_260146.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/UEUYJUSL_088777.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/VTeHYcUe_221485.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/IDByCzep_378227.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/GDgLcuQO_930070.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/ZjAzSiGs_666305.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/XUYjaSDu_394619.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/WjgKpaSx_429794.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/UsWugycb_676079.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/XKBSCUSe_272904.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/PdafCtDb_772015.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/LArBalqi_032799.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/AJGKCZJo_575726.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/LxhmwNFE_942493.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/FEaLRzlj_931946.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/RNqhYwAL_320507.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/XHLiTFPf_798323.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/MusLFACl_815865.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/NJMLjvGX_226104.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/ErJbZYKp_783488.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/PhjVnMyd_313163.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/LWNLCumJ_429274.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/CJTxuFkc_046746.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/FgjNlKOf_251790.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/DbMDhmki_994275.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/WcAZSxIv_210328.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/QAEjNALD_610567.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/QnsqpibZ_243322.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/GiTqjTyJ_575737.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/Zuljbzlw_473705.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/YSQCuTAy_764026.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/GONfWPTF_061504.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/TBFeiZMs_758804.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/LnlwpVAU_390389.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/PdnMPnmw_448794.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/QFJHHLqT_532675.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/XriGrpNm_299461.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/KsJHyVut_015227.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/RJNsDbGs_996311.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/CokHRJbY_504082.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/QRIYDoTD_043164.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/UNXvFWuS_575418.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/FhYjArdJ_680212.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/TAWifjch_453273.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/XludoGwg_291826.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/YxDceHNs_189121.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/WCqulJOy_805077.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/EMEHZyiT_568952.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/YHwifkHm_646753.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/MxTdmPUY_789163.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/MnDnYKIm_374554.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/ZKuEiKoY_205726.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/KKnXCuYH_804616.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/PgpNkosO_088059.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/MRofqUYJ_934429.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/FsCuYVgy_642148.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/KUYqhmQb_776196.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/HEvFwumB_577201.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/GHEWMKUG_783844.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/KBlcYDvs_899197.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/PsbrAmxW_616418.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/RneTfjmR_349752.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/NjgwGKbG_497515.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/JxHRiGxo_163911.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/NprHGeJi_387913.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/CmWUTxkH_419118.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/LMJmdcus_016466.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/XcFCnKiX_315326.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/PpaLyoGl_978459.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/CXHZdndP_199720.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/TiGWBfcV_292028.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/AqNxJUZe_868089.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/HPTxOZRw_753207.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/EEUcNkWO_454915.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/MRbeQnsq_084867.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/WOEpgWBS_092874.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/NdNQiuYW_683675.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/GLcULCuY_016864.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/TAFOtWTs_805036.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/RkBZEQPu_832099.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/DmWazDIn_672715.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/TEoSLdwu_902766.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/PWtWBfVm_649492.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/MMcSQoze_884571.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/BvnFwHsw_371865.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/JbYvfbMx_424357.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/AKTrAGxP_539469.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/AhxhmyCG_208615.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/DbEumrJV_461574.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/PnqugXVm_682403.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/ORgLHgdO_908130.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/IscOuRiB_940436.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/SLpNXizy_560975.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/DoljvMwt_053123.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/CHSCAziL_340463.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/CoMWIyhM_191141.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/EQZecgWu_456833.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/XCFwufdi_429567.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/ZDFskuZY_874063.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/NnjheQvA_346503.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/TVFcHFDF_539978.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/TGjUYPuE_195659.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/PzDbAGej_027831.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/FAVaXWIn_506092.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/SnCASDnd_610166.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/DxUrVBSQ_089432.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/JtebuQio_278756.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/NqBRblVM_895212.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/VrbriMCA_720568.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/RqUrxBlq_946869.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/MbeHyPHx_564099.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/UZeVmdIs_980198.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/YQniZXhs_046193.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/QvecFEHz_061026.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/LxnxofKc_891790.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/RpmWnlcg_261027.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/INXOYQas_261641.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/XTQosqNS_420934.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/DGxTYIUY_059827.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/MpGcMFqv_179166.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/DmctkPGd_974918.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/MzXcLqIN_056889.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/BHdOGXWA_244941.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/JkHeCGyw_887544.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/WzkieuyV_891540.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/SgITRNYI_187539.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/ZvzLdZLP_296932.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/VNeImjak_023108.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/ZPYAFQbL_957852.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/UBLJTpyP_163577.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/CZpuLxpM_979129.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/KSbswvAy_786725.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/UKhYduTs_705406.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/MlGQoSCV_231079.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/ZXtxWNEc_271733.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/VnlZxVsq_156438.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/PgPaEbfP_942205.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/XURisWtL_198028.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/UsPSJoeQ_787985.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/RkhSXblV_382563.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/RYvgkiaF_837201.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/IUZRPtyq_395095.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/FOEjNfXJ_420218.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/HNJUfwoM_064974.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/HWOOgllC_773930.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/IZChLPOm_151551.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/QHXxhSrq_086897.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/BEWTkpMk_003699.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/VRvUFyQc_143911.md
https://github.com/huchak/srsepn/blob/main/KAEDoufD_050573.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/XMxbMfDx_380682.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/FMLKWBaZ_997616.md
https://github.com/dotamnme/xgodus/blob/main/ZUlWQCTY_271096.md
https://github.com/weans80/ktulrp/blob/main/YHkBspgG_954175.md
https://github.com/langterhat/ancjas/blob/main/LEtLvtQB_215754.md
https://github.com/lcocoon/qxjbas/blob/main/UiFqHrPO_734181.md
https://github.com/digitaster/oeyumd/blob/main/HVXuYDZj_656502.md
https://github.com/woorbird2/yhwkdu/blob/main/MImqbAyW_113841.md
https://github.com/fobobert/sckctf/blob/main/MQuZLrhp_704104.md
https://github.com/danlovehin-zr/zolpbg/blob/main/LLPGkVAY_865825.md
https://github.com/cuko001/qziqvm/blob/main/WUryXQKj_519533.md
https://github.com/viitopencomff/ntneyi/blob/main/KNKpJHht_609867.md
https://github.com/lvairrigten/uxrbff/blob/main/VbtlDWOM_897165.md
https://github.com/chitharus/qssjnr/blob/main/VeUAAnGf_120977.md
https://github.com/babra47/wamrif/blob/main/ZqAzqJiJ_149455.md
https://github.com/huntin-cracklyn1/ldliul/blob/main/XofPNSfl_297513.md
https://github.com/connattye/qblxcm/blob/main/YuECvumP_987571.md
https://github.com/brand24girlc/qmywki/blob/main/IvdVMEQe_729408.md
https://github.com/mtradleyclau/wfzkvg/blob/main/VHKVmewG_237944.md
https://github.com/akoedh/qhbspa/blob/main/GCsxcnep_224949.md
https://github.com/gamrosen/wdulcg/blob/main/KkpFQUFQ_345185.md

有些人问我，夏天到底要不要天天做新菜。我们家不可能天天换花样，但每周会固定几个逻辑：蔬菜占比要高，蛋白质要够，烹饪方式尽量少用重油重糖。你看这套菜单，丝瓜和豆角都是蔬菜主角，鸡翅和猪肉负责“撑场面”。调味也不是堆料，生抽、蚝油、葱姜蒜这些都是家常调料，味道靠腌制和火候出来，不靠花哨。

还有一个特别现实的点，家里同住四代人，口味差异大。两位十岁左右的小家伙喜欢重口，老人又怕太油太辣。我做的时候常用的办法是把辣椒做成爆香，不让辣味直接覆盖整盘；蒸菜尽量清爽，烧菜控制生抽和盐；鸡翅煎得脆，但紫苏负责把油香往清处带。这样端上桌，大家都能吃得顺嘴，不用每顿都开两套锅。

如果你也想把这套夏日生活打卡做得更像“在过日子”，那就别只照抄做法。你可以照着步骤做，但端盘子的时候把颜色摆起来，丝瓜绿、茄子紫、豆角褐绿、鸡翅金黄，加上葱花红椒点缀，照片就有层次。家里人愿意吃，拍出来也更有说服力。山东人做饭不追求文艺，追求“热乎、下饭、吃了不难受”，这一点和平台的审美其实能合拍。

我再把关键时间和动作给你捋清楚，照着不容易翻车。猪肉蒸丝瓜：腌十分钟，蒸十分钟。茄子烧豆角：茄子泡后沥干炒软，豆角炒到起虎皮再混炒，最后蒜粒辣椒炒香调味。紫苏烧鸡翅：腌30分钟，加玉米淀粉后煎两面焦脆，爆香洋葱红椒后翻炒几下，紫苏叶翻炒变软就出锅。动作简单，但每一步都决定口感。

我最喜欢的是吃饭时的那几秒钟。筷子落下去，丝瓜先被夹走，茄子豆角被拿去配米饭，鸡翅外皮一咬就“咔嚓”一声。老人也会慢慢吃，喝口汤不急不慢。家里不吵，孩子不闹，父母脸上有点满足劲，这比任何热闹打卡都更值钱。你要是问我夏天做饭图啥，我就图这一桌能让一家人坐在一起，把日子吃得踏实。