甜、脆、不出水！北方的大白菜能有多好吃？

“一包白菜一捆葱，欢欢喜喜过一冬。”对于许多北方人，尤其是老一辈而言，初冬时节囤积大白菜，是刻在记忆里的“头等大事”。

每当卡车满载着层层叠叠的白菜驶入街道，人们便自发排起长队，一买就是上百斤，仿佛北方冬日来临前特有的仪式感。

For many residents of North China, especially among the older generation, stocking up on Chinese cabbage is a seasonal ritual that heralds the arrival of winter.

A common sight each year is trucks laden with fresh Chinese cabbages rolling into neighborhoods, where residents line up to buy them by the hundreds of pounds.

在物资尚不丰裕的年代，大白菜以亲民的价格和出色的耐储性，成为千家万户餐桌上的“主角”。如今，冬季蔬菜供应日益丰富多元，囤白菜已然成为一种承载着情感与记忆的文化传统。

In earlier times, when food options were limited, the affordable and durable Chinese cabbage reigned supreme on dinner tables throughout the cold months. Today, the annual Chinese cabbage purchase has become a cherished tradition for many northerners.

然而，当今消费者在冬季蔬菜储备上，追求的已不仅仅是“量”的充足带来的安全感，更注重“质”的享受。白菜的品种、口感成为关键，小棵型、高品质的精品白菜正成为市场新宠。

However, modern consumers are now prioritizing quality over quantity, with greater attention given to variety, texture, and taste.

眼下又到了北京冬储大白菜上市的季节。在距离北京130多公里的河北玉田县，菜农们正忙碌地采收，为保障首都冬季“菜篮子”供应做足准备。

This year's winter Chinese cabbage supply season has begun. In Yutian county, Hebei province, farmers are busy harvesting Chinese cabbage to ensure steady supply to neighboring regions, including Beijing.

这里的玉田包尖白菜，因其耐贮藏、不易抽薹（开花）的特性，一直是京津地区冬储白菜的首选。立冬前后，菜农们将一棵棵叶球直筒拧抱、顶部尖耸的包尖白菜砍下，细致地剥去外层老叶，整齐码放，最终运往北京最大的农产品交易市场新发地。

Prized for its excellent storage quality and resistance to bolting, Chinese cabbage grown in Yutian has long been the preferred choice for residents in Beijing and Tianjin.

“玉田白菜甜脆，做馅不出水，清鲜；炒着吃也自带一股香味。”北京市民王女士的评价，道出了许多人的喜好。

“The variety from Yutian is sweet and crisp. When used in fillings, it doesn’t release much water, so the taste stays fresh. When stir-fried, it has a natural fragrance all its own,” said Wang Yuzhi, a 63-year-old Beijing resident.

这份独特的风味从何而来？白菜育种专家张淑江研究员揭示了其中的奥秘：玉田县的地下水中，偏硅酸和锶的含量达到了国家矿泉水标准，加之肥沃的土壤与适宜的季风气候，共同造就了包尖白菜“帮薄味甜、纤维少、水分足”的卓越品质。

科技的加持让传统品种焕发新生。张淑江研究员团队培育的白菜新品种“绿笋70”，展现了出色的抗逆性和生长势头。面对今年玉田地区的持续阴雨天气，“绿笋70”依然保持了高产优质，显著提升了种植效益和市场竞争力。

Zhang Shujiang, a Chinese cabbage breeding expert, and his team have developed a new hybrid variety named Lyusun 70, which shows remarkable resilience and vigorous growth. Despite persistent rainy weather this year in Yutian, Lyusun 70 maintained high yield and quality, boosting both profits and market competitiveness.

农民合作社负责人蔡连柱（左）与张淑江研究员（右）在玉田县的白菜田交流

“这个杂交一代新品种，植株直立，叶球拧抱像颗炮弹。它不仅抗性强、极耐储藏，而且质地甘脆，生熟皆可，入锅易熟烂。”张淑江介绍道。在2025年第八届京津冀蔬菜产业发展大会上，“玉田包尖白菜”多项营养指标被检测出高于全国样品平均值18.7%至47.6%，品质获得权威认可。

“It’s a first-generation hybrid with upright plants and tightly wrapped leaves shaped like a shell. In addition to its strong disease resistance, it stores well and has a sweet, crisp texture, making it suitable for both raw and cooked dishes.”

据新发地市场数据，玉田县每年供应北京的冬储大白菜超过30万吨，其中包尖白菜的供应量超过7.5万吨。此外，玉田蔬菜已与“超市发”等大型连锁商超建立了长期稳定的合作关系。

According to data from the Xinfadi market, a wholesale food market in Beijing's Fengtai district, the county supplies over 300,000 metric tons of winter Chinese cabbages to Beijing annually, with the variety from Yutian accounting for more than 75,000 tons.

在这个物流发达、四季菜蔬琳琅满目的时代，大白菜不再仅仅是过冬的储备，更承载着北方人充满烟火气的冬日记忆。

记者：赵伊梦

实习生：靳佳欣

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