“南泥北运”？哈尔滨搓澡阿姨：一瞅就知道谁是南方游客

今年冬天，随着哈尔滨旅游市场的再次爆火，当地大大小小的洗浴中心也迅速走红。大批南方游客涌入，只为体验一把地道的搓澡服务。

不少游客表示，各大洗浴中心的拥挤程度堪比春运，还有网友把这一现象形象地称作“南泥北运”。

In addition to being a delightful fusion of cuisine and winter sports shaped by its historical and geographical context as the "Ice City", Harbin in Northeast China's Heilongjiang province has also become home to another booming market: bath centers, or bathhouses, which serve as unique socializing venues and are ubiquitous in northeastern Chinese cities. ubiquitous /juːˈbɪkwɪtəs/ 普遍存在的

搓一名客人约要20分钟

一名有着20多年经验的搓澡阿姨表示，其所工作的一家24小时营业的洗浴中心一共有7名师傅，年龄都是45岁上下的中年人，早上9点上班，晚上11点下班。7人轮班，每天有一个人值晚班，也安排一人调休。但具体安排一般是商量着来，谁有事就紧着谁来。

搓澡讲究精细，每换一名顾客，要先从脚旁的塑料桶中舀些热水把小床冲干净，铺上一层全新的塑料薄膜，再按照“一客一换”的原则为顾客准备全新的搓澡巾和毛巾。接着按照“四面搓”的原则，从颈到脚，对客人的背面、正面、两侧搓。每个搓澡工之间的顺序不尽相同，但原则是一定要把顾客“搓透”。通常情况下，搓完一名客人，大约需要20分钟，但具体时间因人而异。

Scrubbing is a detailed process. When a customer arrives, scrub workers clean the bed, cover it with a fresh sheet, and prepare new towels. They then follow the "four-sided scrub" method, scrubbing the back, front, and sides from neck to feet. This typically takes around 20 minutes.

搓澡是个体力活，搓完一名客人，就能出一身汗，腱鞘炎、肩周炎、拉着筋、扯着背都是家常便饭。所以年轻人大都熬不住，搓澡师傅多数都是45岁上下的中年人，大家上有老下有小，不怕辛苦。

现在人们来洗浴中心不单单为搓澡，更为了放松。所以每位搓澡师傅除了要掌握基本的搓澡手法，按摩、刮痧、拔罐、头疗等也都需要精通。

Scrubbing is physically demanding, with scrub workers often dealing with aches and pains. Most are middle-aged, as younger people may struggle with the physical strain. Many scrub workers have families to support and are used to hard work. Besides basic scrubbing, scrub workers also need skills in massage, gua sha, cupping, and head therapy to ensure customers can relax.

一名搓澡工在练习捏脚

搓澡工还有定期考核机制，所以闲时，大家会互相搓澡，交流手法。

淡季种地、旺季搓澡，一天最多搓了37个人

搓澡这一行分淡旺季，澡堂生意的红火程度跟天气直接挂钩。

每年3-9月是澡堂的淡季。这名搓澡阿姨表示，这个时段，她一般会回老家种地。东北天冷得早，差不多从九月开始，澡堂的人流量就开始多起来了。等气温骤降到0℃以下，澡堂的旺季就来了，忙碌也从田间转到搓澡台上，一直忙到立春前后。

From March to September, the bathhouse is in its off-season. During this time, the interviewed scrub worker typically returns to her hometown to work on the farm. In Northeast China, the cold weather arrives early, and by September, the flow of customers to the bathhouse starts to increase. When the temperature drops below 0°C, the peak season begins, and she shifts from the fields back to the bathhouse, staying busy until just before and after the beginning of Spring.

春节前，澡堂的生意是最好的。阿姨回忆，有一年春节最忙的时候，她一天搓了37个客人，从早上7点上班，凌晨1点多才回家休息。下了班后，她整个胳膊、腿都在不自觉发抖，即使一觉醒来，全身的酸痛还在持续。

The busiest time at the bathhouse is before the Spring Festival. She recalls one year when, at the height of the rush, she scrubbed 37 guests in a single day.

哈尔滨中央大街游人如织

通过职业为家乡助力，很幸福

这几年，来东北旅游的人多了起来，搓澡也成了很多南方游客争相体验的项目，有时候搓澡都需要提前拿号排队。

游客在松花江上游玩

这位搓澡阿姨表示，能通过自己的职业为家乡助力，是件很幸福的事情。为了配合各地游客的出游时间，他们从原定的一周轮休一天改成半天，晚上下班时间也从11点改成12点。

The scrub workers are happy their work helps boost local tourism. One shared that Southern tourists are easy to spot—they're usually shy and wrapped in towels. First-time visitors may feel awkward, so the workers adjust pressure to make them comfortable, treating everyone like family.

阿姨说，南北方的游客特别好辨别，一般裹着浴巾，略显害羞的多数是南方人。其实，第一次来体验的顾客难免有些扭捏，他们会更加关注其适不适应，比如力度重不重、习惯不习惯。她还记得，前几天碰到一个来自广州的游客一直用浴巾裹着身子，不敢尝试。其实她们都把游客当自己孩子，手法轻重都会不断调整，大家可以大胆一试。

网传东北的搓澡阿姨，搓澡大爷特别能聊，这是东北人骨子里带的热情。其实，这还得分人，如果你想闭眼享受，他们也会保持安静，让你安心体验。如果你想了解一些东北文化，每个阿姨和大爷都是地道的“推广大使”。

Northeast scrubbing aunties are known for being chatty, reflecting the region's warmth. But if you prefer peace, they'll keep quiet. If you're interested in learning about Northeast culture, they're happy to share as local "ambassadors".

编辑： 黎霈融

实习生：田曼吟

来源：人民日报 九派新闻

封面来源：小红书@奶泡味的臭咪