真人秀如何改变我们的购物方式

How Reality TV Is Changing The Way We Shop

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

曾几何时，在那个其实并不久远的年代，我们在商店购物时可以触摸和感觉到商品。但是就在那么短的时间，社会彻底颠覆了购物方式，给我们带来更多的购物渠道，也改变了我们的购物心态。在我们之中，尤其是千禧年那代及更年轻的那代人，更倾向于在网店购物。我们竞相追随社交媒体中的潮流先锋，学他们的穿衣风格，即便买不到同款，也要买类似的。而现在，真人秀正加入这一改变游戏规则的行列。

Once upon a time, not that long ago, we shopped in physical shops and bought things we had actually touched and felt in our hands. But in a relatively short space of time, we as a society have completely changed the way we shop, opened up more channels for buying than ever before and even the psychology of shopping has evolved. Particularly millennials and younger generations are much more likely to shop online through store websites, buy similar if not the same clothes as the influencers we follow on social media and now, reality TV is joining the game changing gang.

大受欢迎的英国真人秀Love Island（《爱之岛》）是促成这一改变的催化剂，其构思被Made In Chelsea（《切尔西制造》）等其它节目所复制，形成了连锁反应。在本季《爱之岛》中，Amber Gill虽是获胜者，但她的东家Boohoo，一个快消零售商，才是真正的赢家。Boohoo旗下品牌MissPap在今年十月初签下了Amber Gill，自此，他们便打败了年轻人市场上的长期竞争对手ASOS。很多人认为，他们的成功应归功于与真人秀明星的合作与联系，也难怪其它品牌也纷纷效仿。第四频道的Made In Chelsea下大功夫与在线零售商Never Fully Dressed（总是穿不够 合作，意在乘着真人秀的东风赚上一笔。但是，街头巷尾的各个品牌为何选择真人秀明星代言而不去找那些更出名的一线明星呢？

The popular British reality TV show Love Island was the catalyst to this change and other shows such as Made In Chelsea have copied the idea, creating a chain reaction. This year's Love Island winner was Amber Gill but arguably it's fast fashion retailer Boohoo who signed her who was the real winner overall. Boohoo, who own brand MissPap, signed up Amber Gill in early October of this year and it has since come to light that Boohoo have surpassed their long term rival for sales in the youth category, ASOS. Many attribute this success to the collaboration and connection to reality TV stars endorsements so it's not surprising that other brands want in on the action too. Channel 4's Made In Chelsea main stays have collaborated with online retailer Never Fully Dressed, in their attempt to make bank on the popularity of reality TV. But how come with so many higher A list celebrities available to use for endorsement, are high street brands choosing reality TV stars instead?

明星代言Celebrity Endorsement

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

这里的原因就在于“相关性”。谁能相信，一家公司以一百万美元签下了Gigi Hadid（美国当红模特，女演员）为其代言。众所周知，如果Gigi和她在IT-Girl（经常现身主流媒体及终日参加聚会的时尚女性的别称）的模特朋友们受聘参加快销时尚推广活动，没别的原因，仅仅是她们拿钱办事。我们都清楚，Gigi从不会在Pretty Little Thing或者Asos、Boohoo上购物。但是真人秀明星来自于寻常百姓家，之后成为IT-Girl女模。她们原本就是普通的邻家女孩，一夜之间家喻户晓。这些推广让我们相信她们成名前甚至成名后，都在购买这些品牌，这就让整个推广活动看起来有理有据，并且与之关联。

It all boils down to relatability. At the end of the day, a company could pay Gigi Hadid a million dollars to endorse their collections but nobody would believe it. We all know that if Gigi or any of her other It-Girl model friends were paid to be a part of a fast-fashion campaign, that's the only reason they're involved – because they were paid to do so. Gigi Hadid doesn't shop at Pretty Little Thing or Asos, or Boohoo and we all know it! But reality TV stars have become our It-Girls from home, they are the girl next door, rags to riches, nobodies to somebodies over night. These are the stylish girls who before their fame and (as the campaigns would have us believe) even afterwards, genuinely shop at these brands, making the whole campaign feel grounded and relatable.

更多的原因，也许是消费者不再像过去那样好糊弄了。过去我们的消费者看到模特身上的衣服的照片并有感同身受的感觉：模特身上衣服看起来不错，那穿在自己身上也应该不错，那就买下来。现在的消费者就聪明多了，大家都知道模特的身材并不代表大多数女性身材，但是当你看到同样的衣服穿在某个真人秀明星身上，他就像如身边的人一样，如此一来，我们在决定要不要去掏钱的时候就大不一样了。这种购物方式所带来的真实的体验感，正是当下的经济条件下消费者所想要的。最重要的是，我们都相信Amber Gill会在MissPap的网店买衣服，然后周末穿出去，但没人会相信Gigi Hadid也会这么做。

Furthermore, consumers are perhaps not as easily tricked as they once were. There was a time when consumers could see an image of a dress on a model and feel an instant connection. They would purchase the dress because it looked good on the model, therefore, that meant it would look good on them too. But now consumers aren't so easily fooled. We all know that model bodies are not an average representation of the majority of female bodies but seeing the same dress on a body that belongs to a new reality star who was once just like you or I, makes a huge different to whether or not we as consumers are likely to make a purchase. It feels authentic and that is certainly the overarching trend that consumers looks for when purchasing anything in todays economy. Ultimately, whether it's true or not, we can all believe that Amber Gill would buy an outfit online at MissPap and wear it out at the weekend but nobody is going to believe Gigi Hadid would do the same.

总会有落后的时候

There's Always A Catch

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

此类明星代言并不长久，至少对于商家是这样。这一战略生命周期极其短暂，炙手可热的冬季市场来临之前，商家们通常只有一个非常短暂的窗口期来争抢真人秀当红明星。对于这些明星来说，成名之后，要么登堂入室去接更高端的广告，要么干脆纸醉金迷再也不见人影。下一季《爱之岛》已定档明年1月在南非进行拍摄，这就意味着Amber Gill在MissPap的代言在冬季来临前即将到期。

It's not always rosey in the garden for this type of celebrity endorsement however, at least not for the brands. This strategy is ultimately short lived and brands have a very narrow window in order to snap up the latest reality TV star before the next hot young winner comes along. For these stars, they often graduate to higher campaigns or disappear into the ether altogether, relatively soon after their fame. The next season of Love Island is already set to take place in South Africa and will be filmed in January, meaning Amber's campaign with MissPap is likely to be as short lived as the next winner to come along.

这不仅是《爱之岛》播出以来唯一要抓紧事情。节目选手Arabella Chi在ASOS的孕妇装发布之后也推出了相应孕妇装，并在网上大卖。通过这场秀很明显可以看出，她并没有怀孕，只不过是在肚子上装了点东西假扮成孕妇，很多品牌都会这么做。许多孕妇模特在拍摄中就像衣服下藏着一只篮球，而她们臀部、手脚也没有隆起，也没有表现出那些真正的孕妇描述下的各种不适。尽管这样，许多人看了仍然感到震惊。Asos解释说他们永远不会去让一名真正的孕妇去站一整天，我们对此表示认可，但这样一来的确不能展现出孕妇实际身材。

This wasn't the only catch to raise its ugly head after Love Island aired. Contestant Arabella Chi basically outed the maternity wear sector after images of her modeling maternity wear for ASOS appeared and went viral online. Quite clearly, after seeing her on the show, she was not pregnant, had been wearing a prosthetic pregnancy stomach and in fact this is quite normal for many brands. Even though maternity models are often photographed looking like they simply have a beachball underneath their clothes, with zero swelling to their hips, wrists or feet and show a lack of any of the uncomfortably most noted by actual pregnant women, people were still very shocked. ASOS did defend the situation by stating that they would never want to force an actual pregnant person to have to stand up all day which is fair enough we suppose but in the end, it does give an inaccurate portrayal of a pregnant body.

也许在将来，我们可能看到真人秀明星可以在怀孕期间承担模特工作，但是考虑到上文所述短暂的代言周期，我们并不抱太大希望。

Perhaps in the future, we might see some reality TV stars modeling while pregnant but considering the short lived fame we discussed them having, we don't hold up much hope!

上海大学巴黎国际时装艺术学院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立于2003年，被外界誉为”上海时装界的黄埔军校“，是国内第一个在上海创办的中法合作时装设计学院，国内率先引进法国奢侈品营销与管理专业和时尚传播专业。受到中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会、中国国际贸易促进会纺织行业分会等专业社会团体的支持。