从时尚博主到网红美妆品牌

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

你可能不知道Emily Weiss这个人，但是她的美妆品牌Glossier你肯定听过。Glossier的成功很大程度上得益于Emily Weiss卓越的时尚传播知识。美妆行业一败涂地的企业数不胜数，Glossier却异军突起，本文为您深度分析Glossier时尚传播策略的高明之处。

You may not have heard of Emily Weiss but you'll certainly have heard of the cult beauty brand behind her ; Glossier. A major part of Glossier's success is all down to Emily Weiss's extraordinary knowledge and application of fashion communications into the beauty sector. Many other beauty brands have tried and failed where Glossier excelled and it's time we looked in depth into Glossier's fashion communication strategy to see exactly how to do it right the way.

品牌背景Brand Background

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

Weiss为人所知，是早年间的一部名为《好莱坞女孩》的美剧，当时Weiss还是《Teen Vogue》杂志的实习生，Weiss有机会和剧中的女主Lauren Conard合作。然后就上了一档名为《超级实习生》的真人秀，随后又去《W》杂志工作了一段时间，还在《Vogue》当过时装助理。在《Vogue》工作期间，Weiss发现了美妆市场的空白，开了一个名为“Into The Gloss”的博客。由此Weiss结识了大量行业里的名媛和名人，她深知读者想知道这些人是如何护肤、化妆的。采访了如Kim Kardashian 、Karlie Kloss等红人之后，粉丝量暴涨，很多粉丝用了这些名人同款后，在Weiss的评论区分享心得，还为其他人解答美妆问题。不久之后，Weiss辞掉了工作，全职经营自己的博客，增加了自己的更博频率，流量很快涨了三倍。

If the name Weiss sounds familiar, it may be that you're an avid The Hills fan. After securing an internship at Teen Vogue, Weiss found herself working alongside The Hills star, Lauren Conrad. This ultimately led to her being featured on the show as the “Super Intern” before moving on to work briefly for W Magazine and then over to Vogue as a fashion assistant. It was during her time at Vogue that Weiss discovered a gap in the beauty market and subsequently set up her blog “Into The Gloss.” With access to some of the industry's most infamous It Girls and celebrities, Weiss knew that readers wanted to know candid information on how these girls conducted their skincare and beauty regimes. Interviewing influencers like Kim Kardashian and Karlie Kloss, her blog readership grew quickly, with many readers getting involved by commenting on their own findings of the products used by these influential women and making product suggestions to other readers beauty woes. It wasn't long before Weiss quit her job to focus on the blog full time, increasing the number of posts created and tripling her traffic almost overnight.

之后的事情是Weiss一开始写博客没想到的，她在博客收集到了价值连城的信息，她的博客相当于一个平台，在这里女性朋友在表达出了他们对现有美妆产品的真实评价，同时她也就道了女性想要怎样的美妆产品， Glossier应运而生。

Weiss didn't know it when she started the blog but what she had cleverly done was gain a wealth of information. By creating a platform where real women spoke openly about the kind of products they wished existed in the market and told her exactly what they wanted from a beauty brand, Glossier was born.

关于产品The Products

Glossier从四个产品开始： 护肤膏，面霜，润肤膏和面部喷雾，都是非常基础的产品， 关键在于Weiss听到了来自市场的声音，给了消费者想要的东西：不露痕迹的化妆效果。Weiss有着与生俱来的时尚传播意识，把Glossier带到了今天这样的高度。Weiss曾经这样分析Glossier的传播策略： “品牌是最最重要的，没有之一”，她说得一点都没错。

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

Glossier only started with four products, a balm, a skin tint, a moisturizer and a facial mist. Fairly standard products even for the time of Glossier's launch, the key element was that Weiss listened to her market and delivered what they wanted - products designed to give a no-makeup look. Weiss's natural flair for fashion communications led her directly into the iconic branding for Glossier we know and recognize today. Weiss said of Glossier's fashion communication, "Brand is really, really important. It's kind of everything.” And she isn't wrong!

标示性的粉色调，各种各样极简妆容的模特和好玩的品牌格调保证Glossier在任何时尚传播的渠道都能实现强烈又独特的品牌风格。最后赢得的不仅是口碑，还有实实在在的业绩。随着产品线的增加， 市场表现了对这个品牌着了魔一样的狂热， 2018年的营收实现了翻倍，品牌的顾客超过一百万人，每32秒就能卖出一支Boy Brow染眉膏，这一切的成就都让人惊讶。

The consistent pink color palette, diverse, minimally made up models and the playful tone of the brand's voice have ensured that Glossier has retained their strong and unique point of view across all of their fashion communication channels. But it's not all words, the facts and figures speak for themselves. As their s their product lines grew, so did their cult following and by 2018 they had double their revenue from the previous year, acquired a million new customers and were selling one Boy Brow every thirty two seconds. Impressive to say the least.

关于策略The Strategy

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

Glossier在美妆行业的时尚传播策略和时装品牌的路数颇有相似之处。视觉是核心，辅之以免费教学，教程和对消费者开放品牌的传播方式。首先消费者能从Glossier的INS账号看到Glossier辨识度很高的品牌色，这有助于把自己和其他品牌从一开始就区别开，同时又建立了品牌中不同产品间的联系。在模特的挑选上，Glossier不拘一格，各种各样的都有，来表明不管什么肤色，什么肤质，不管什么文化或者个人风格，这个品牌可以适合每个人。Glossier产品的本质是对什么是美的阐释，不管你个人的美容风格是什么，一定要轻快，充满活力，或者更自然。不管是日常美容 还是基础使用， Glossier都可以发挥自己的作用。

Glossier applies their fashion led communications into the beauty sector much in the same way as a fashion brand. Visuals are at the core, backed up by free education, tutorials and opening up their brand to consumer lines of communication. We can see immediately from their Instagram that Glossier has a clear brand color palette that makes it instantly recognizable as well as helping to create a cohesive grid. The diversity used in terms of models, shows that the brand is for everyone, regardless of skin color, skin type, culture and personal style. The nature of their products and having a stripped back approach to beauty means that no matter your personal beauty style, be it bright and vibrant or more natural makeup, everyone can benefit from Glossier's products as either their full beauty routine or as their base application.

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

Glossier会一直告诉你用他们的产品来化妆， 不会有像其他品牌宣传的那种怎么也化不出来的效果，Glossier的广告很好看但是更真实。这种广告策略在拥挤的美妆市场更像一股清流，消费者用了他们家的产品， 化出来的妆和广告里的模特效果是一样的。Glossier这种强调真实性的差异化广告策略取得了巨大的成功。 当然Glossier也不可能随便找一个路人来拍广告， 他们还是用的专业模特， 这些模特的不同之处在于他们更普通，有真实生活中的种种瑕疵。Glosssier至少在Instagram上采取了这种策略，可以发现Glosssier的模特有不同种族， 有男有女，还有忙碌的母亲和女性企业家。当今的消费者越来越发现很难实现那些完美无瑕的妆容，他们就更愿意为更真实的广告里买单，Glossier的广告模特就像身边大活人一样，有雀斑，眉毛也更自然。

The looks Glossier suggests you can create from their products wasn't the unattainable looks being suggested by other beauty brands at the time of their launch. Instead, their looks are aspirational but realistic at the same time, setting them apart from the crowded market of beauty brands attempting to convince customers that by buying their products they will instantly look like an airbrushed cover model. Glossier disguises their advertising as authenticity, ultimately leading to their high success and revered communications strategy. While Glossier doesn't necessarily use actual real life people for their marketing, they still use professional models, but the “normal-ness” and imperfections of them are as real as it gets, at least on Instagram. You'll find their grid is a diverse range of race and ethnicity, men and women, busy moms and femalepreneurs. Customers find it hard to relate to the unattainable, polished look these days and therefore, they are much more likely to purchase from a brand who features models that look like real life people, freckles out and natural eyebrows included.

综合以上的这些因素造就了2019的亲民品牌Glossier，这一年消费者对真实性的要求前所未有地高涨，可以说Glossier的出现恰逢其时，而且Glossier并没有止步于此，他们还转发用户对产品的体验，来告诉那些潜在的顾客，他们是多么真实，多么亲切。

All of this combined, makes Glossier a relatable brand and in 2019, the strive and demand for authenticity has never been higher, it's safe to say Glossier was well ahead of the curve when it first launched. Not only does Glossier feature relatable people, they also take it a step further by reposting content from their followers talking about Glossier, showing anyone who hasn't jumped on board with Glossier, just how authentic and relatable they are.

上海大学巴黎国际时装艺术学院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立于2003年，被外界誉为”上海时装界的黄埔军校“，是国内第一个在上海创办的中法合作时装设计学院，国内率先引进法国奢侈品营销与管理专业和时尚传播专业。受到中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会、中国国际贸易促进会纺织行业分会等专业社会团体的支持。