运河鲜闻｜从印度到扬州的“味觉溯源” 淮扬美食续写中印人文双向奔赴

大运河传媒讯（董明 徐蓉）10月27日，扬州院子·淮扬土菜庭院餐厅里，淮扬美食香气氤氲。印度CD基金会主席、社会活动家查鲁·达斯（Charu Das）一行在扬州开启了一场特别的“味觉溯源”之旅。今年8月，扬州和韵艺术团应印度CD基金会邀请，在印度德里、海德拉巴开展友好交流活动。扬州院子的厨师们带去了来自“世界美食之都”的淮扬美食。时隔两月，这场跨越山海的美食之约，从印度回到了淮扬菜的发源地扬州。Grand Canal Media News (Dong Ming, Xu Rong) On October 27th, at the Yangzhou Yuanzi · Huaiyang Local Cuisine Restaurant, the aroma of Huaiyang cuisine filled the air. Charu Das, president of the Indian CD Foundation and a social activist, along with his team, embarked on a special “taste exploration” journey in Yangzhou. In August this year, the Yangzhou Yuyun Art Troupe, at the invitation of the Indian CD Foundation, organized friendly exchange activities in Delhi and Hyderabad, India. The chefs from Yangzhou Yuanzi brought along dishes from the “World Capital of Food”. Two months later, this culinary encounter that spanned mountains and seas returned to Yangzhou, the birthplace of Huaiyang cuisine, from India.

美食是扬州最亮眼的城市名片。8月，作为近六年来中国首个赴印的文艺代表团，也是江苏省十年来首个出访印度的文艺团体，扬州和韵艺术团以淮扬菜和中国非遗记忆的多元化立体展现的形式，在中国驻印度大使馆、REYANSH职业学院、佛光山印度沙弥学院等地分享扬州香菇素菜包、翡翠烧麦、羊肉包子、扬州炒饭、松鼠鱼等不同类型风格的淮扬菜。一道道色香味俱全的佳肴亮相现场，收获了印度当地朋友的连连称赞。Food is the most prominent characteristic of Yangzhou as a city. In August, as the first cultural delegation from China to India in nearly six years, and also the first cultural group from Jiangsu Province to visit India in ten years, the Yangzhou Heyun Art Troupe presented a variety of dishes from Yangzhou cuisine and traditional Chinese arts and crafts to the people of India at the Indian Embassy in China, REYANSH College, and Buddha Light Mountain Indian Monk Academy. They served dishes such as Yangzhou mushroom-based vegetarian buns, jade-colored dumplings, lamb bunches, Yangzhou fried rice, and squirrel fish. These delicious dishes, with their beautiful colors, flavors, and aromas, were highly praised by the local Indians.

在扬州院子，查鲁·达斯一眼就认出了艺术团的老朋友们。扬州和韵艺术团联合创始人、顾问、世界运河历史文化城市合作组织（WCCO）运河城市国际交流专委会主任邓清，和韵艺术团团长蒋毅、书记李向阳以及常务副团长、扬州职业技术大学副教授王婧非常开心地和达斯互相问候、拥抱寒暄。更有意思的一幕出现在餐厅内的明厨窗边。跟着代表团一起出访印度的扬州院子白案厨师包静正在里面忙碌。达斯见到后非常惊喜，并和她隔着玻璃兴奋地招手呼喊。包静也笑着挥手回应，双方像许久没见的老朋友，亲切感溢于言表。At Yangzhou Yuanzi, Charu Das immediately recognized the old friends from the art troupe. Deng Qing, co-founder, advisor of the Yangzhou Heyun Art Troupe, and director of the Canal Cities International Exchange Committee of the World Historic and Cultural Canal Cities Cooperation Organization (WCCO); Jiang Yi, head of the troupe; Li Xiangyang, secretary; and Wang Jing, executive deputy head and associate professor at Yangzhou Vocational and Technical University, greeted Das warmly and hugged her. An even more interesting scene took place near the kitchen window in the restaurant. Bao Jing, the chef working at Yangzhou Yuanzi, was busy in the kitchen along with the delegation. When Das saw her, she was very surprised and waved excitedly at her through the glass. Bao Jing also smiled and waved back, and the two seemed like old friends who hadn’t seen each other for a long time, with a strong sense of affection between them.

曾去印度现场掌勺的扬州院子联合创始人俞昌志，说起印度之行依旧兴致勃勃。他感叹，印度各式各样的咖喱、特色蔬果和甜点，都让他大开眼界。“这种交流对厨师来说机会难得。我们可以分享淮扬菜的烹饪手艺，也学习他们独特的调味方式，互相借鉴。”Yu Changzhi, one of the co-founders of Yangzhou Yaya Joint, who once worked on-site in India, remains enthusiastic about his trip there. He says that the various curries, specialty fruits and vegetables, as well as desserts in India, have greatly broadened his horizons. “This kind of exchange is a rare opportunity for chefs. We can share our cooking skills related to Huaiyang cuisine, and also learn their unique methods of seasoning, so that we can learn from each other.”

扬州与印度的友好交流由来已久，早在2016年，扬州就成功举办了“丝路美食扬州汇暨印度周”活动，同年还举办了中国（扬州）- 印度创新与商务合作论坛，持续搭建交流通道，为两地多领域友好往来筑牢根基。这已经是达斯半年里第二次来扬州。她很高兴能够吃到最正宗的淮扬美食，并且说道；“我由衷相信，美食本身就是一种语言。所以我希望推动大量文化交流，尤其是美食交流。”The friendly relations between Yangzhou and India have a long history. As early as 2016, Yangzhou successfully organized the “Silk Road Food Fair in Yangzhou and India Week” event. That same year, the China (Yangzhou) – India Innovation and Business Cooperation Forum was held, further strengthening the channels for exchange between the two regions and laying a solid foundation for friendly cooperation in various fields. This is already the second time that she has visited Yangzhou in the past six months. She is very pleased to taste the most authentic Huaiyang cuisine and said, “I truly believe that food is a form of language. Therefore, I hope to promote more cultural exchanges, especially those related to food.”

此次到访扬州，达斯计划能够在此筹办印度美食节，邀请印度厨师前来开展美食快闪，让更多中国朋友品尝地道印度风味。同时，她也期待再次邀约扬州大厨赴印度开展厨艺互动展示，双向推广两地特色美食，让两地民众在舌尖上读懂彼此，增厚民间往来。“我们不仅希望能把中国饮食文化传播到海外，也期待印度多姿多彩的饮食文化引入中国。真正美好的文化交流，从来都是双向奔赴。” 扬州市淮扬菜美食促进会常务副会长、扬州院子负责人创始人薛亮军说。During this visit to Yangzhou, Das plans to organize an Indian food festival here. She will invite Indian chefs to conduct food pop-up events, allowing more Chinese friends to experience authentic Indian cuisine. At the same time, she also hopes to invite Yangzhou chefs to India for culinary demonstrations, thereby promoting the unique foods of both places and enabling people from both regions to understand each other through their food. “We not only hope to spread Chinese cuisine overseas, but also to introduce India’s diverse culinary culture to China. True cultural exchange is always a two-way process,” said Xue Liangjun, Executive Vice President of Yangzhou Huaiyang Cuisine Promotion Association and founder of Yangzhou Yuanzi.

一同前来的CD基金会合作伙伴、Cherish Journeys（珍爱旅行）总经理肖比特・古普塔（Shobhit Gupta）第一次到访中国，扬州的园林风光，令他印象深刻。Cherish Journeys是印度专注于提供深度体验的旅行服务商。“中印文化有相通之处，我认为借此次契机将中国旅游资源推向印度，是很好的机会。”古普塔说，目前他正打算和本地入境旅行社对接，量身设计两条印度游客专属旅行线路，并重点考虑饮食特色，从而把扬州推向印度旅游市场。Shobhit Gupta, a partner of CD Foundation and General Manager of Cherish Journeys, visited China for the first time. He was deeply impressed by the gardens and scenery in Yangzhou. Cherish Journeys is an Indian travel service provider that focuses on providing immersive experiences. “There are similarities between Chinese and Indian cultures. I believe it’s a great opportunity to promote China’s tourism resources to India through this event,” said Gupta. Currently, he is working with local travel agencies to design two special tour packages for Indian tourists, with a focus on culinary traditions, so as to bring Yangzhou into the Indian tourism market.

世界运河历史文化城市合作组织（WCCO）副秘书长、大运河传媒总编辑王晖军认为，美食是一种国际语言，可以跨越国界。扬州作为世界美食之都，以美食为主题开展国际活动，是扬州鲜活的国际传播实践样本。亮点就在于不是单向宣传，而是双向奔赴、彼此共鸣。淮扬菜走到印度亮相，印度友人又回访扬州，探讨中印美食节活动的举办，让淮扬菜进一步走出国门。Wang Huijun, Deputy Secretary-General of the World Canal Historical and Cultural Cities Cooperation Organization (WCCO) and Chief Editor of the Grand Canal Media, believes that food is a universal language that can transcend borders. As a world-famous city of cuisine, Yangzhou’s use of food as a theme for international events represents a valuable example of effective international communication. The key point is that it’s not one-way promotion, but a two-way interaction and mutual understanding. The introduction of Huaiyang cuisine in India, along with Indian visitors visiting Yangzhou to discuss the organization of the Chinese-Indian food festivals, helps to further expand the reach of Huaiyang cuisine outside of China.

（大运河新闻热线：18611735190）

制作 曹宇

编校 延晨 徐蓉

一审 桂艳 张莉

二审 肖东 董明

三审 晖军