老干妈回应“味道变了”

近日，“老干妈为节省成本味道变了”的话题引发网友热议。有消费者反映老干妈味道变了，还有消费者吐槽豆豉味道不同、鸡肉含量减少，也有人猜测其更换了辣椒原料。

Recent online discussions have stirred debate over whether Lao Gan Ma, China's beloved chili sauce brand, has changed its signature taste to cut costs. Some consumers claim the flavor is not what it used to be, noting differences in the fermented black bean taste and a reduced chicken content in certain products. Others speculate that the company may have switched to cheaper pepper varieties.

图源：界面图库

据津云新闻，对此，贵阳南明老干妈风味食品有限责任公司相关工作人员进行回应，其否认了为节约成本而调整原料的说法，并表示产品味道如有差异，可能是由于消费者生活水平提升、对口感的要求越来越高，加之个人口味偏好不同所致。工作人员同时强调，老干妈的原料、工艺及配方，并未改变。

In response to the controversy, a representative from Guiyang Nanming Laoganma Flavor Foodstuff Co Ltd has denied any cost-driven adjustments to ingredients. The staff member suggested that perceived differences in taste could be due to consumers' rising living standards and higher expectations for flavor, combined with individual preferences. The company emphasized that its raw materials, production techniques, and recipe remain unchanged.

公开资料显示，1984年，老干妈创始人陶华碧凭借自己独特的炒制工艺，推出了别具风味的佐餐调料。1996年，老干妈批量生产后在全国迅速成为销售热点。目前老干妈主要生产风味豆豉、风味鸡油辣椒、香辣菜、风味腐乳等20余个系列产品。

Founded in 1984 by Tao Huabi, who developed a unique stir-frying method for seasonings, Lao Gan Ma began mass production in 1996 and quickly gained nationwide popularity. The brand now offers over 20 product lines, including fermented bean chili sauce, chicken oil chili, spicy vegetables, and fermented tofu.

界面新闻查询电商平台老干妈旗舰店了解到，“老干妈风味豆豉油辣椒”的配料包括菜籽油、豆豉（大豆、水、食用盐），辣椒、味精、白砂糖。“老干妈风味鸡油辣椒”的配料包括菜籽油、辣椒、鸡肉（带骨）、大蒜、味精、食用盐、白砂糖、花椒。

According to listings on Lao Gan Ma's official e-store, its classic fermented bean chili sauce contains rapeseed oil, fermented soybeans, chili, monosodium glutamate, and sugar. The chicken oil chili variant includes rapeseed oil, chili, chicken (with bone), garlic, monosodium glutamate, salt, sugar, and Sichuan pepper.

另据北京商报，在陶华碧退居二线后，老干妈曾在成本压力下，放弃贵州辣椒，转而选择更为便宜的河南辣椒，导致老干妈口味变化，遭到部分消费者抵制，2017年、2018年连续两年业绩下滑，2019年陶华碧回归经营，将老干妈的原料改回了原来的材料。

外媒安利“老干妈”：

“中国最火辣的女人”

作为不少中国人的下饭神器，老干妈2024年曾入选英国《卫报》的圣诞愿望清单。

顶级厨师和美食作家会把什么列入他们的圣诞愿望清单？据《卫报》，老干妈打败一众对手，成为他们喜爱的19款礼物之一。

What do top chefs and food writers put on their Christmas wish lists? According to The Guardian, Chinese Lao Gan Ma crispy chilli in oil has become one of their favorite gifts this year.

在报道中，畅销书《酒吧厨房》的作者、大厨Tom Kerridge说，他喜欢老干妈的脆皮辣椒油️。老干妈不仅价格不贵，而且超级好吃，几乎百搭。

"I love Lao Gan Ma crispy chilli in oil, which I get from WaNaHong. It's not too expensive, it's super tasty, and it goes with everything — it's on preorder in my basket," said Tom Kerridge, chef, restaurateur and author of Pub Kitchen.

而这也并非老干妈第一次进入外媒视野。

早在2021年，《卫报》在“改变生活的酱料”一文中称，老干妈的香脆辣椒油在中国非常受欢迎，在西方美食爱好者中也拥有一大批忠实的追随者。利物浦一餐厅的行政总厨评价老干妈的豆豉口味：“神级！”

Huge in China, Lao Gan Ma's crispy chilli oils also have a passionate following among Western food geeks. The original fried onion and Guizhou chilli oil is the cult classic (warm heat, incredible savoury depth), but the black bean version ("God tier!" says Sam Grainger, the executive chef at Belzan in Liverpool) is now the connoisseur's choice.

2022年，《卫报》再次发文安利老干妈，并称之为“中国最火辣的女人”（China's hottest woman）。

来源：界面新闻 澎湃新闻 21世纪英文报 卫报

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