螺蛳粉火到国外！外媒找到重点：“酸笋才是灵魂……” 丨外媒说

一碗粉撑起一座城，用这句话来形容螺蛳粉在柳州的地位丝毫不夸张。

如今，螺蛳粉不仅火遍全国，还开始扬名海外，吸引一众国外主流媒体的关注。海外媒体对螺蛳粉这道“又香又臭”的美食展示出了极高的兴趣，纷纷以此做文章。

NPR：疫情期间螺蛳粉在中国走红，但闻起来有点......臭臭的

“酸笋是灵魂”

首先来看外媒怎么描述螺蛳粉的制作工艺。

美国全国公共广播电台网站（NPR）的描写十分细致，画面感十足。

Slippery rice noodles are first bathed in a slow-simmering broth of laboriously peeled river snails. Then they're topped with odorous bamboo shoots that have been covered in salt and left to ferment for a few weeks, tofu and salty lemon vinegar. 首先将爽滑的米粉浸泡在螺蛳汤里，小火慢炖。米粉煮熟出锅后，铺上酸笋、豆腐和白醋。那酸笋臭味扑鼻，是竹笋撒上一层盐，发酵数周而成。 simmer [ˈsɪmər] v.煨；徐徐沸腾 broth [brɔθ] n.（加入蔬菜的）肉汤；高汤 odorous [ˈoʊdərəs] adj.有气味的 ferment [ˈfɜrˌment] v.(使)发酵

图源：CNN

许多外媒发现了重点，原来酸笋才是螺蛳粉的灵魂！美国有线电视新闻网（CNN）写道：

While the snail may stand out as the most unusual ingredient in luosifen, local bamboo shoots are what give soul to the noodle soup. Luosifen's arguably off-putting scent comes from fermented "suan sun" —sour bamboo shoots. Despite being produced in a factory, every bamboo shoot packet sold with luosifen is handmade according to Liuzhou traditions, say manufacturers. 虽然螺蛳可能是螺蛳粉的特色所在，但其实，酸笋才是螺蛳粉的灵魂。发酵好的酸笋使得螺蛳粉的味道异常难闻。虽然酸笋是在工厂里生产的，但商家说，与螺蛳粉一起出售的每一包酸笋都是按照柳州的传统手工艺制作的。 off-putting [ˈɔfˌpʊtɪŋ] adj.令人烦恼的、讨厌的

图源：CNN

日经亚洲（NIKKEI Asia）也提到了螺蛳粉中酸笋的奇特味道。

As the bamboo shoots are stored in a pot of mountain spring water for two weeks, they develop a particularly pungent smell during this fermenting process. While the lovers say the pickled bamboo shoot is the soul of the noodle, the haters say it makes the neighbor suspect there is a secret weapon of mass destruction. 竹笋在山泉水中浸泡了两周，在发酵的过程中，它会产生一种特别刺鼻的气味。对于喜欢吃螺蛳粉的人来说，酸笋是螺蛳粉的灵魂；而不喜欢这味道的人则会说，邻居会怀疑你家有大规模杀伤性武器。 pungent [ˈpʌndʒənt] adj.味道（或气味）强烈的

螺蛳粉里为什么没螺蛳？

《南华早报》更是对螺蛳粉的每一个配料和味道都细致入微地介绍了个遍，看着就想流口水……

What arrived was a colorful, inviting bowl of noodle soup with a reddish-brown, slightly opaque broth filled with a mélange of toppings that provided a symphony of textures and tastes. 到手的是一碗色、香、味都十分诱人的螺蛳粉，略稠的红褐色汤汁中浸满了配料，各种口感和味道奇妙地交织在一起。 Stalks of barely-cooked yu choy added fresh, verdant flavor; salted, skin-on roasted peanuts provided crunch and toasty, umami notes; pickled turnips brought crispness and tangy flavor; wood ear mushrooms had a more subtle al dente texture, with a hint of earthy flavor; tofu skin added delicate flavor and texture; half an egg added heft; and squares of fried tofu soaked up the broth like sponges, bursting with each bite. 半熟的油菜增加一抹青翠新鲜；带皮的咸味烤花生香脆可口；腌萝卜味道浓郁，口感清脆；木耳略带嚼劲的口感，还有一丝泥土气息；豆腐皮增加了细腻的味道和口感；半个鸡蛋增添了分量；炸豆腐像海绵一样吸收了汤汁，每咬一口都爆浆。 mélange [mei'lɔŋʒ] n.混合物；杂烩 symphony [ˈsɪmfəni] n.交响乐 verdant [ˈvɜrd(ə)nt] adj.碧绿的；青翠的 umami [u:'mɑ:mi] n.鲜味 tangy [ˈtæŋi] adj.怪臭的；扑鼻的

The broth was simultaneously spicy, pungent, earthy, sour, and funky, while allowing the flavor of all the toppings to shine through. The silky, slippery round rice noodles, just a little thicker than spaghetti, were a welcome reprieve from the robust flavors while adding another dimension of texture. 螺蛳粉的肉汤融合了辣味和冲劲，厚重、酸爽，又有点臭，同时让所有配菜的亮点都散发出来。爽滑的圆米线，比意大利面条略粗一点，可以缓解汤底的重口味，同时增加了另一种口感。 reprieve [rɪˈpriv] n.缓解

图源：南华早报

螺蛳粉中是看不见螺蛳的，为什么呢？日经亚洲（NIKKEI Asia）很专业地做了介绍，因为螺蛳肉主要用来炖汤底。

The snails are not visible in luosifen. As the snail meat is slowly cooked with pork bones and 13 spices, it melts and becomes part of the soup. 人们在螺蛳粉中是见不到螺蛳的。螺蛳与猪骨以及13种香料一起慢慢熬制融合，成为汤底的一部分。

图源：CNN

“它闻起来很臭，但吃起来很香”

说到螺蛳粉独树一帜的味道，外媒不约而同地表示：又香又臭。

Asiaone报道称，螺蛳粉和榴莲一样，味道刺鼻，但这不影响它在粉丝中的受欢迎程度。

Its distinctive odour, like that of durians, is so strong that it can fill an entire restaurant and the surrounding streets with its smell. However, the smell does not at all affect its popularity among fans whose motto is: "it smells bad, but it tastes delicious". 螺蛳粉臭得独特，和榴莲一样，浓郁的臭味弥漫整个餐厅和周围的街道。不过，这种味道丝毫不影响它在粉丝中的受欢迎程度，粉丝们的格言是：“它闻起来很臭，但吃起来很香。”

图源：NPR

CNN则把螺蛳粉比做“榴莲汤”（durian of soup）……

Just like the notorious durian fruit, this snail-based rice noodle soup dish has created a buzz on Chinese social media thanks to its infamous smell. While some claim the scent is mildly sour, others say it should be classed as a bioweapon. 就像臭味十足的榴莲一样，这道以螺蛳为原料的螺蛳粉因其难闻的味道在中国社交媒体上走红。有些人说螺蛳粉的味道带点酸腐味，有人则戏称它应该被归类为生物武器。 bioweapon: 生物武器

来源：舌尖上的中国

螺蛳粉在网络上走红

在过去，外地人很难有机会尝试螺蛳粉这个柳州特色小吃，不过近些年来速食螺蛳粉的出现，让螺蛳粉很快火出柳州，受到国内甚至是海外诸多消费者的欢迎。

In 2020, online influencers with tens of millions of followers began blogging about the disgustingly good snack. A combination of online guerilla marketing and word-of-mouth hype has made snail noodles an instant hit. Last year, dozens of snail noodle brands sold 1.1 billion packets of the make-it-at-home version. 2020年，拥有数千万粉丝的网红们开始在社交媒体上分享这款又香又臭的小吃。网上销售和口碑营销相结合，使得螺蛳粉一炮而红。去年，几十个品牌的螺蛳粉卖出了11亿包方便装螺蛳粉。 disgustingly [dɪs'gʌstɪŋli] adv.令人恶心地 guerilla marketing 游击式营销 word-of-mouth hype 口耳相传的促销

人们也纷纷在网上加入到诸如搞笑视频挑战之类的螺蛳粉“狂欢”的队伍当中，比如在猫面前吃螺蛳粉，拍下它们的反应。还有螺蛳粉爱好者创作了可爱暖心的螺蛳粉卡通形象，在武汉暴发新冠疫情期间为“热干面”打气。

Government efforts have led to more research and upgraded technologies in food prep, processing, sterilization and packaging. Nowadays, most luosifen packages on the market have a shelf life of up to six months, which allows people, near or far, to enjoy the same flavors with minimal preparation. 政府在食品制备、加工、消毒和包装方面进行了更多的研究和技术升级。如今，市场上大多数螺蛳粉的保质期长达6个月，无论距离原产地有多远，人们都可以用最少的准备工作来享受相同的口味。

疫情之下的高配版“方便面”

新冠疫情也推动了螺蛳粉在海内外的走红。居家隔离的人们无法外出采购食材做饭，餐饮行业又几近停摆，速食螺蛳粉因此悄然火遍全网。

据Asiaone报道，一袋螺蛳粉配料多达9包，还有脆萝卜和蛋，比方便面好吃：

As this year witnessed soaring demand for convenient meals, luosifen became the top stay-at-home food in China. Unlike instant noodles with boring seasoning, luosifen contains as many as nine packets with real ingredients. Some even have crisp radish and eggs. In Asian supermarkets overseas, luosifen also became a hot commodity. 今年，随着人们对速食食品的需求飙升，螺蛳粉成为了中国最受欢迎的居家食品。螺蛳粉不同于调料大众化的方便面，它的配料多达9包，且都是真材实料。有些螺蛳粉的配料甚至有脆萝卜和蛋。在海外的亚洲超市，螺蛳粉也成了热销商品。 seasoning [ˈsiz(ə)nɪŋ] n.调味品；佐料 commodity [kəˈmɑdəti] n.商品；产品；货物

来源：Asiaone

预制包装的螺蛳粉的安全性有保障吗？这方面外媒也解释清楚了。

CNN文章介绍称，生产商对制作工作道道把关，用八角、茴香、麻椒等香料作为天然防腐剂，因此螺蛳粉的质量和新鲜度是不会受影响的。

Rather than adding flavoring powders, the luosifen broth—often condensed in packets—is created through protracted cooking processes, with bulks of snails, chicken bones and pig marrow bones sitting in rolling boils for more than 10 hours. 螺蛳粉不是用调味粉调味，而是将精心制作好的汤汁浓缩包装起来。制作汤底需要将大量螺蛳、鸡骨和猪髓骨放在滚烫的锅里熬制10多个小时。 protracted [prəˈtræktəd] adj.拖沓的；延长的

The elaborate process also applies to the rice noodles—the main character of the dish. From grinding grains to steaming to drying to packaging, it takes at least seven procedures carried out over two full days—already a largely shortened time thanks to automation—to achieve the foolproof "al dente" state. 米粉是螺蛳粉的主体，也是精心制作的。从磨粉到蒸煮，再到干燥和包装，至少需要七道工序，耗时整整两天。自动化生产大大缩短了耗时，确保米粉劲道弹牙。 al dente [æl ˈdenti] adj.筋道的；煮到弹牙

怎么样，外媒的报道有没有让你流口水？你觉得螺蛳粉味道如何？欢迎评论区聊聊~

编辑：左卓 陈月华

实习生：叶珍

来源：NPR; CNN; Asiaone; NIKKEI Asia; 南华早报