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As the clock hands approach midnight, Ma Qingqi－a delivery driver in Zhongshan, Guangdong province－leaves his home to start his daily routine. Earlier than most of his fellow drivers, he transports fresh vegetables to a wholesale market in Macao. After unloading the goods, Ma relishes the most relaxing time of the day－and orders a cup of coffee and a pineapple bun.
当时钟指针接近午夜时，来自广东省中山市的送货司机马庆祺离开家门，开启了日常的一天。和大多数同行相比，他会更早地将新鲜蔬菜运送到澳门的一个批发市场。卸下货物后，马庆祺会点上一杯咖啡和一个菠萝包，享受着一天中最放松的时光。
As a popular destination renowned for its varied cuisine, Macao lives up to any tourist's expectations for a tasty trip. However, a lesser-known fact is that around 90 percent of the region's fresh ingredients are transported from the Chinese mainland, with the "vegetable basket project"－a decadeslong program to improve food production and supplies－carried out in the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area.
澳门是一个以各种美食闻名的旅游胜地，任何来澳门旅行的游客都不会失望。鲜为人知的是，这个地区大约90%的新鲜食材都是从内地运来的。“菜篮子工程”在粤港澳大湾区实施了几十年，致力于改善食品生产和供应。
Ma's routine, exemplifying the project's impact, is seen in Crunch and Munch in Macao, a 4K documentary series jointly produced by the China Media Group and the Macao Special Administrative Region.
马庆祺的日常工作在纪录片《澳门之味》中彰显了“菜篮子工程”的影响。这部4K纪录片由中央广播电视总台与澳门特别行政区联合制作。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
With four episodes, each spanning 50 minutes, the documentary has been running on multiple platforms including CCTV-1 and CCTV-9 since Dec 18, two days before the 22nd anniversary of Macao's return to the motherland. Currently, the documentary has been watched by more than 23 million people, and has accumulated 600 million clicks of its related social media content on platforms including Sina Weibo.
这部四集的纪录片每集时长为50分钟，12月18日起在CCTV-1和CCTV-9等多个平台播出。首播时间在澳门回归祖国22周年纪念日的前两天。目前，已有2300多万观众观看该片，其在新浪微博等平台上的相关社交媒体点击量已累计达到6亿。
The documentary touches on all the major aspects of Macao's food, not least its colorful street snacks and the culinary traditions inherited from early Guangdong and Fujian immigrants, as well as the transformation brought by Macao's handover.
《澳门之味》展现了澳门饮食的主要方面，不仅有丰富多彩的街头小吃、传承于早期广东和福建移民的烹饪传统，还有澳门回归后饮食上的转变。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
Zhang Hanbing, the chief director, recalls that they first had the idea to produce the documentary in 2019, but their interviews－reaching a total of 397 individuals and restaurant staff in four weeks－started in August last year due to the pandemic.
总导演张涵冰回忆说，2019年他们就萌生了制作这部纪录片的想法。但由于新冠肺炎疫情的影响，节目的采访录制去年8月才开始，四周内他们采到了包括餐厅工作人员在内的共计397人。
Talking about the fact that Macao earned UNESCO recognition as a world-leading culinary destination in 2017, Zhang says the region's distinctive openness and hospitality helped merge cooking techniques, as well as ingredients, from the East and the West.
2017年，澳门被联合国教科文组织授予“世界美食之都”的称号。谈到这个，张涵冰表示，澳门独特的开放包容和热情好客有助于东西方食材和烹饪技术相互交融，博采众长。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
Overcoming a series of challenges, including two regional resurgences of the pandemic and a strong typhoon, Zhang led four teams of eight directors to wrap up the main shoot in mid-October, with a few new scenes, featuring a gourmet festival and the Macao Grand Prix, filmed later in November.
拍摄团队克服了一系列困难，其中包括两次区域性的新冠肺炎疫情和一次强台风。在张涵冰的带领下，八名导演组成的四个小组在10月中旬结束了主要的拍摄工作，而包含美食节和澳门格兰披治大赛在内的新场景则是在11月结束拍摄的。
Despite the difficulties, the shoot was a journey of surprise. Xu Rui, director of one episode, recalls their chance encounter with Audrey Stow, the daughter of the late Andrew Stow, a baker known for the iconic Macao egg tart, a reinvented version that blends the methods of traditional Portuguese egg tarts with English custard tarts.
尽管困难重重，这次拍摄却充满了惊喜。其中一集的导演徐蕊回忆起他们偶遇著名烘焙师安德鲁·斯托的女儿区迪·斯托的故事。安德鲁·斯托生前创造了经典的澳门蛋挞，这款蛋挞融合了传统葡式蛋挞和英式蛋挞的制作方法。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
"Macao egg tarts are so famous that most tourists will rank it highly on their must-try list, so we didn't plan to take much time to feature it. However, Audrey told us some interesting stories, making us change our mind," says Xu.
徐蕊介绍：“澳门的蛋挞非常有名，大多数游客会把它排在打卡名单的前列，所以我们一开始没打算花太多时间介绍它。但是，在区迪和我们分享了一些有意思的故事后，我们的想法发生了改变。”
Originally traveling to work in Macao as a pharmacist, Andrew Stow shifted his career interest to the food industry, opening up Lord Stow's Bakery in the late 1980s. With an experimental spirit, Stow cooked his special egg tarts with the creatively, crispy scorched top.
最初，安德鲁·斯托以药剂师的身份来到澳门工作。后来他对食品行业产生了浓厚的兴趣，在20世纪80年代末开了家安德鲁饼店。带着一种实验精神，他创造出了这款特别的蛋挞，该蛋挞的顶部烤制得非常酥脆。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
However, the brown top－now a signature flavor－was not well-received as most people believed it was burnt. Stow's wife persuaded her husband to give away the tarts for free. The endeavor met with an overwhelmingly positive response, laying the foundation for the bakery franchise's expansion overseas to Japan and the Philippines.
虽然焦黄的挞顶如今已成为一种标志性的味道，但这种蛋挞当时并不受欢迎，因为大多数人认为它被烤焦了。斯托的妻子甚至劝说他将蛋挞免费赠送了。但斯托的这项创举还是取得了空前的积极效果，为其开设日本和菲律宾的海外分店奠定了基础。
"Audrey told us that she'll never change the egg-tart recipe, as she wants the flavor created by her father to be tasted by future generations. Her love and devotion to her father instills the snack with a touching warmth, making the story more meaningful," says Xu.
徐蕊表示：“区迪告诉我们她永远不会改变蛋挞的配方，因为她希望子孙后代能继续品尝到她父亲创造的味道。她对父亲诚挚的爱赋予了这道甜点温暖、感人的意味，也让这个故事更有意义。”
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
Aside from its alluring taste, food sometimes possesses power thanks to the legendary stories behind certain dishes. This is reflected in the tale of Leong Kam Hon, a former shipbuilder whose life was altered after a workplace accident which nearly cost him his arm in the 1990s.
除了诱人的味道之外，美食有时也因其背后蕴含的传奇故事而充满强大的力量。这在梁金汉的故事中得到了充分印证。曾是一名船工的梁金汉，在20世纪90年代的一次工伤事故中，差点失去了手臂，他的生活也由此发生变化。
Restarting his career by opening up a cafe, the determined man learned a recipe for hand-stirred coffee from a foreign couple. One cup requires constant stirring－at least 400 times－to mix sugar, hot water and instant coffee. With praise from Hong Kong superstar Chow Yun-fat, who stumbled upon his small venue and enjoyed a cup of the hand-whipped coffee, the cafe has since become a top draw for avid fans and curious tourists.
梁金汉开了一家咖啡馆，重新开始了个人事业，意志坚定的他从一对外国夫妇那里学到了手打咖啡的配方。为了让糖、热水和速溶咖啡充分融合，一杯咖啡需要不断搅拌至少400次。香港巨星周润发偶然发现这家小小的咖啡店，在享用了一杯手打咖啡后留下赞誉。此后，这家咖啡馆成为了打卡圣地，吸引着狂热的粉丝和想来一探究竟的游客。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
Such interesting stories abound in Macao－a Portuguese chef taking Macao as his second home to run a restaurant with his wife, a hospitable street vendor devoted to his porridge sales for over 60 years, and an American chef's experimental cooking of steaks in a special kitchen with a wall made of Himalayan salt blocks.
这样有趣的故事在澳门比比皆是：一位葡萄牙厨师把澳门当做第二故乡，与妻子经营着一家餐馆；一位好客的街头小贩卖了60多年的粥；一位美国厨师在一间由喜马拉雅盐板砌成的特殊厨房里烹饪牛排。
图源：纪录片《澳门之味》
"Most of the legendary stories behind the delicacies are like a dialogue exchanged between different civilizations. If you take a look back at history, you find most cultural clashes were accompanied by violence or conflict," comments Zhang Tongdao, director of the documentary center with Beijing Normal University.
北京师范大学纪录片研究中心主任张同道评论说：“大多数美食背后的传奇故事，就像不同文明之间的对话交流。但如果回顾一下历史，你会发现大多数文化碰撞是与暴力或冲突相伴的。”
"Hence, a cultural encounter through food is beautiful and warm, making the documentary not just a mouthwatering treat but also a thought-provoking trip," he adds.
他补充道，“因此，食物搭载的文化碰撞是美丽且温暖的。这部纪录片不仅是一次令人垂涎欲滴的盛宴，也是一次发人深省的旅途。”
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编辑：李金昳 周婵
记者：徐帆
录音：Stephanie Stone
实习生：陈伊明 舒好
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